Another thing to consider when going to single from a double is crossmembers will most likely need to be shimmed to make up the extra gap missing from the inner sleeve rail being removed. Otherwise the overall width will be narrower causing issues with alignment of everything else bolted to the frame.
I’ve been looking and calling around to salvage yards. Eventually I’ll find something or a shop to do it.
Yes I considered that. I believe PG Adams would be able to make something. I talked to a guy in Mass. who recommended using a 1/2” frame to avoid having an insert at the rears so I would probably need 1/8” shims
White used to sell shims over the counter years ago. I have a box on a shelf in a trailer full of new ones for the old round tube 4 bolt flare setup they used on everything they made from FL to A-car. They are assortment from 1/16” to 1/2” thick. I know guys that have restored old Autocars that needed to shave the crossmember ends to fit when swapping from Aluminum to steel.
I checked with Peterbilt about new rails predrilled $10-11k before the flu. Can’t imagine what they are now. I asked for the blueprint and they wouldn’t give it to me. I might just wait awhile. I put a lot of change into it in the last year.
I’ll try that, there website show’s reviews from some people around the country but nobody close. I’m sure there must be someone close
Just for reference, a buddy had his rails replaced at Pete in WI for 26K 3 years ago. The drivers side had cracked right behind the bunk. They got the rails from Adams and took about 3 weeks to get them He went from 250 to 295. They also added 4 toolboxes.
I just scrolled back about 2 years + and found the quote from my Pete dealer. $5250 per side and about a thousand per side to drill em out.
