Ideally, a brand new truck paid for with cash upfront. Then get extended manufactures warranty for 500 000 miles/5 years including aftertreatment.
Still, I'd need cash reserves for at least 1 year worth of fuel and salary.
Yeah, dam it! That's what I think is a good way to start...
Pre emission vs Emission engines
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You got some splainin' to do with 4 rears or I'm calling bull
Ya can't blame the OEM it's called a ####ing tard in the left seat. C'mon snowy you've been out here long enough to know this. Stop spouting bs
Or haven't you been driving long enough?
I know a t600 that had the same problem.
That makes 2.
Now I have no idea as I didn't watch the repairs on the w900 but the 600 had that clunker super 10 trans.
Get over yourself.
I bought a one small company owner, but multiple company drivers international 1997 9300 n-14 - 13 speed with a million 175 on the original motor and tranny at time of sale.
I have all the service records from day one and the build sheet.
It has had one used rear end put in at 800 thousand. I take it a driver tore it up as the company shop was meticulous about maintaince , so doubt a blown seal.
Had a new clutch job done at 800 thousand so that tells you it was driven right to go that long.
New accessory drive installed at 500 thousand but I take that was too much belt tension and the bushing got destroyed .
Heads milled at 850 thousand with a new starter changed same milage
Other than the basics brakes, airbags , shocks , cab bags , ujoints and fluids ,belts all is original over than million 175.
Only one airbag on the suspension has been replaced along with one brake can.
Though it’s had kingpins and tie rods replaced twice in its lifetime. No wonder it drives nice.
The last 8 years it did mostly local farm work but this truck was a good running low cost truck for the previous owners. .Last edited: Apr 4, 2021
Ill have about 10-12 grand in new bolt on parts in redoing mine this spring.
That’s not going inside of the motor -trans - or rears but includes seals , u-joints and brakes for the rears and some parts to tighten up the shift tower.
Motor is solid and doesn’t smoke or drip so other than running a overhead and bolting on outside parts I’m not touching it.
Another $4-5 grand for me to rebuild the motor isn’t a big deal but why do it if it doesn’t need it.
I ll try to get another 100 thousand out of the clutch and when it’s time I ll throw in a new rebuilt or have my 13 rebuilt at reputable shop while I’m in the project .
Same with rears, I’ll go with an updated cutoff with discs like Tugtoy did.
Just makes sense.
A lot of wrenching but my truck is not a rusty dog either.
Believe Me i viewed many rust buckets due for the junkyard when I was looking for a truck 3 years ago.Vampire Thanks this.
My old boss in MT would do rears at 750k no matter what. Anything past that and he’s start having issues. And that was at 105k gross fleet wide, all trucks spec’d the same with 3.70’s and 15 speeds. So either someone was getting junk parts or the drivers were abnormally hard on the equipment.
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