Pre-emissions are overvalued. I feel like these lots add $10,000 to the price just because they put “ELD exempt” in the description. I’m not going to pay $50-70K for a 30 year old rust bucket painted over with black spray paint to make someone a quick buck. And when I was searching for a truck I couldn’t find an O/O selling for a reasonable price either.
The problem with emissions trucks is that nobody is willing to understand them. They just want to believe they’re all bad because of the early failures they had simply because people don’t understand them and drive/operate them like they are a pre emissions truck. And most shops don’t even have the equipment necessary to service emissions because they’re so #### expensive, so they just tell you it needs to be replaced. Easy enough for them, huge profit margins, and don’t have to invest in six figure DPF cleaning equipment, testing, etc.
In actually reality, you shouldn’t buy a truck you don’t understand. If you drove nothing but Cascadias your entire career then there’s nothing wrong with buying a Cascadia as your first truck. Don’t surround yourself with people who judge other people, especially on things like what truck they drive. Life is too short to be shallow.
Having a trustworthy shop is more important than the truck you choose to buy regardless in my opinion.
Pre emission vs Emission engines
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The problem with buying an old pre emission truck and fixing it up is you’ll be broke before you start. $60,000 will go a good ways toward fixing one up, (if you have cash in hand, no bank would loan money for that) but you’ll start out your trucking career by dishing out thousands of dollars you need for fuel and insurance. If you have it all done at a shop its weeks of downtime before you turn a wheel.
If you just go buy a 20 year old truck and go to work with it, there’s no telling what all is wrong with it. You notice almost every one of these guys running pre emission trucks have a shop and don’t mind working on them.
That's what it takes to make these trucks work.
This is the recent auction results for pre 2000 trucks.
seems to be some nice looking rigs there for under $20-25k
Some under $12k
put it on a dyno, see what happens, if the engine doesn’t overheat or blow all the oil out , then figure dropping $10k for new virgin tires
(saw a recap blow on a truck I was beside yesterday and do quite a bit of damage to a truck and at least three hours downtime on the shoulder )
( i used to have an old truck that had so much blow by I had to use a bungee cord to keep the dipstick from blowing out of the tube.
I drove it for years , and made a lot of money with it. Just had to remember to pour in a gallon of oil every 500 miles.)
new drums and shoes and brake cans and slack adjusters all around.
Maybe new belts and hoses if not already done.
Consider a water pump and air compressor and maybe a new radiator, but I’d run it a few trips first and see what happens.
keep a couple of credit cards empty in case you need major unexpected repairsLast edited: Apr 6, 2021
Two owner , under 300k miles ,
this is why I always bought used Fords
if either of these said “peterbilt” in the Blue oval on the grill instead of “Ford” they would have sold for $75-85k
same cat or Cummins engine , same fuller transmission , same fuller Eaton axles.
just add a zero to the price because of the name .
You’d get that money back if and when you sold it , but if money is tight when you are just getting started, a truck is a truck, and gets paid the same to haul a load.Last edited: Apr 6, 2021
KullenTrucking Thanks this.
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