pulled inspection plate off to grease throw out - this fell out

Just last week had the clutch replaced in the '98 KW W900 I drive. All it needed was the clutch kit (15.5), pilot bearing, disc kit, and flywheel resurfaced....with 10 hours labor it came out right at $1900. This was at a shop I've used for years in FL....

 

Had my clutch replaced around 6 months ago. $2,250 for heavy duty. Took one guy a full 8 hours. Mine started out the same way as yours. A few pieces of metal out the inspection plate. Then once in a while the clutch wouldn't work at all. Come to find out small pieces of metal were getting stuck and would not let the clutch work properly.

Then one day it wouldn't work at all. Drove home 600 miles without a clutch. Started off in 3rd gear then starting the engine. Drove at night.

Mechanic left the inspection plate off. He said that's so broken parts can fall out the next time.

 

Same thing, when they pulled the inspection plate a chunk of curled metal fell out. Ended up driving from Albuquerque NM all the way back to Stockton CA with no clutch. Almost made it all the way but when I stopped on the offramp for the Pilot in Madera CA, the starter didn't have enough power to get us rolling again on the incline. Had to get a $350 tow 1000 feet across the bridge into a gravel lot and $1200 more for a new starter. $4600 for a clutch job.

 

Ouch!

 

i had to put a clutch in mine last january. mine was more an issue with the input shaft,it appears the shaft had been reused a few times,with just a clutch job. so it was grooved up and causing disengagement issues.

i woulda done it myself had it not been winter. what sucks is i thought it had the big clutch,but it had a 14" clutch. i woulda put a 15.5" in it had i known.

nice thing on a COE,lift the cap and the trans is right there fully accessible.

 

With regards to the clutch linkage. All that really needs to be done there is replacing all the old sloppy worn ball joint ends with new ones, right? Or does the linkage itself need replacing? I need to get a closer look at that.

I can check off on trans cooler. Thankfully it was converted from water cooled to air cooled years ago.

All new engine mounts, front and rear, were installed a couple of years ago also so those are fine. You guys suggesting u-joints and carrier bearing that's all in good shape too.

Some of you guys have me sweating this whereas before I wasn't really, lol. I've got a 600 mile trip ahead of me today/tonight then a short 200 mile trip, then have to find my way back in on 500-700 miles on the last part of it. I think I'll get it in the shop right away. Fingers crossed I can baby it back home.

 

I appreciate everyone's input. It helps a lot.

 

Sorry. Didnt mean to make you nervous. Probally be just fine. Seen some really bad ones that drove in to shop all so.

 

you'll want to verify the linkage is set up properly,after correctly setting the clutch brake distance. they are two separate adjustments. some guys will use the linkage to correct the brake distance,which is incorrect.

 

That's been explained in here at length years ago by Mr Haney. I believe he also said not to resurface a fly wheel more than once as it will be too thin. He also suggested double clutching for a period after the install to break it in properly.