Pullin with the dreaded PACCAR Mx13

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by RushmoreTrucker, Nov 4, 2025.

  1. Brandonpdx

    Brandonpdx Road Train Member

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    I would never buy a new or new-to-me truck that had an auto shift if I were out in the open market shopping for a truck. If I’m dream truck shopping on Truck Paper, I’m automatically filtering all those out very first thing. The truck I do own I stumbled into and inherited so the sucky transmission is what it is. I drove it as a company driver for awhile and they sold it to me very reasonable, but it ain’t nothing I would have went out shopping for, if you catch me. (Nobody dreams about an MX-13 automatic T680 with all the emissions bells and whistles.) So I asked about manual swapping too. It’s got the hole in the floor and spot on the firewall for the pedal. Pretty sure a 10 speed would bolt up to the factory driveline. The center console dash piece is all wrong where the shift selector is, so there would be a problem there also.
     

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  3. Long FLD

    Long FLD Road Train Member

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    If you’re basing your opinion of autos on the one you have then it’s not really a fair comparison to the current ones available. I loved the 12 speed I had, 390k with no issues before I sold it. I wanted one in the truck I’m driving now but it was too late to make any changes to it other than color. But now he has some 12 speed autos coming in. I’m stuck with this manual until it’s trade time for the truck I’m driving.
     
  4. RushmoreTrucker

    RushmoreTrucker Light Load Member

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    For the economics of it, if I wanted a truck that already had a manual in it with any significant life remaining before engine overhaul, I would've had to pay literally double what I paid for this truck. I could literally overpay like $30k for a swap and come out ahead of buying a truck like this that already had a manual. The difference in price is way more than the cost of installing a manual.

    I drove a lot of 2010s autos at Sysco and they were garbage compared to the 2020s autos. Same for the emissions.

    If I wasn't putting DEF in this thing I wouldn't notice it was an emissions truck, and the same goes for the T680s I drove as a company driver.

    I've never had to regen this truck even, and fingers crossed pretty much nothing will happen until I replace the DPF filter in like a year, and then I'll forget again for a couple years.

    The post emissions yet pre 2020s trucks I've driven had a ton more problems regardless of mileage or hours.

    Anyways, back to transmissions, the TX12 or whatever they call it in these and the one in newer Volvos/Macks are okay. Expensive to replace if they go down, but okay. But it'd probably be cheaper to do a manual swap than fix whatever goes wrong if its major.

    Kenworth dealerships tell me not to change any configuration of anything. I'm not sure what to make of that because I'm not inside their brain and can't see if they're saying that for my benefit or theirs or a million other things. But they aren't staring down the barrel of what a truck costs to buy when they say it's easier to buy a truck already configured as desired. Like, yeah, that's definitely less shop work, but not necessarily more economical.
     
  5. Long FLD

    Long FLD Road Train Member

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    Why not run your truck while putting money back for a new one? Order exactly what you want. You’d be money ahead versus changing everything on your current truck.
     
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  6. Brandonpdx

    Brandonpdx Road Train Member

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    I don’t doubt the latest gen ones are better at doing what they do. Still wouldn’t want one though. But that’s just a me thing. I like the feel of the gears through the stick and manual control of the clutch. At best an auto shifting setup would allow me to manipulate the gears exactly how I want by mimicking stick movements though clicking up or down on a button. But you still don’t have control of the clutch or the relatively modest replacement cost of a manual box. To me these were an inevitable invention of the fleets and bean counters to save fuel and repair bills and make trucking more user friendly to lure more drivers in. All legitimate reasons and probably worked, but the real driving enthusiasts and gear heads want what they want.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2026
  7. Brandonpdx

    Brandonpdx Road Train Member

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    They aren’t generally in the business of modifying and hot-rodding work equipment. There are outfits that are more on that level but Kenworth dealers have to play by the corporate rules and don’t stray too far off the reservation for liability reasons. Most of the trucks they see aren’t even owned by the guy driving it.

    I agree the emissions stuff has gotten much more reliable than the earlier efforts. Mine has never demanded a parked regen unless I’ve let it high-idle all night in extreme cold. Last night it curiously didn’t though. But I only had the idle bumped up one notch to 750 instead of 950 or 1050. It still stayed up around 170 on the oil and water temp.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2026
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  8. RushmoreTrucker

    RushmoreTrucker Light Load Member

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    I would spec a truck but it doesn't seem economically justified to me. To be clear though, I'm running the truck until a failure gives me an excuse to rerate/Transmission swap. It's not that pressing in what I'm doing.

    And I'd have to dump a LOT of money into this truck for it to be half the lifetime cost of a new truck before accounting for maintenance on the new truck.

    I'm at $49050 for this. $2500 in maintenance so far (regular wear and then a fuel tank thing)
    Transmission swap (many miles from now) $14k on the high end
    No idea what HP Rerate would cost. Probably $15k
    Maybe $80-90k and honestly this could be done at same time as an overhaul.
    500k miles to major work hopefully (388k miles, 250k on engine right now)

    APU like this one has, $13k
    Truck itself, maybe $180k lower end
    FET of ten grand or whatever. We're easily north of $200k.
    750k miles to major work hopefully.

    How do you figure the new truck is cost competitive with modification?

    I'd have to be pulling in crazy money to buy a new truck even with good financing rates.

    Truck life vs cost of just possession (not even maintenance)
    $49050 500k is 10 miles/dollar
    $95k (rerate and overhaul Transmission and engine) 900k is about the same
    $200k with 750k useful life new before overhaul is like 2.75 miles/dollar

    A six figure investment. If I'm doing that I'm buying a multi temp reefer and that will make me more money, at which point I'd consider a new truck based on what I've heard about reefer LTL. I'm doing good in dry van because I sought out LTL. Still getting into a groove.

    I could totally survive a new truck payment but I don't see the point and I do see a lot of money to be saved with truck prices where they are used
     
  9. RushmoreTrucker

    RushmoreTrucker Light Load Member

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    Interesting, I'd figure it more likely to ask for a regeneration after a night of lower idle than normal.

    Anyways I think what I need to focus on now is getting my truck serviced in a couple days and finding a good cheap shop for general stuff
     
  10. Long FLD

    Long FLD Road Train Member

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    3 year trade cycle and the stuff that comes up will be the next owner’s problem. Yea you could have some downtime, but actual maintenance will probably be oil changes and a set of steer tires. Maybe drive tires. Unless you’re going to keep your truck forever you’re not likely to get your money out of it that you spend on it to completely make it something different than it is.
     
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  11. Brandonpdx

    Brandonpdx Road Train Member

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    That was at around -5F air temp and it stayed plenty warm at around 170-175 or so on the temps. Oil pressure around 30 psi vs ~20 at the base 650 idle. It seemed to like the 750 better. The few times I've cranked it up to 950 or 1050 all night it would throw a warning on the dash after about 5 or 6 hours (waking me up usually) that it needed a 10 minute parked regen. At those higher idle speeds the temps would slowly creep up hot enough to kick the fan on at 220 until it cooled back to 200. Don't think it likes running that high. I hate idling so much I'd almost rather just stay out of the way of any temps low enough to suggest it.

    I do all my own maintenance on my little truck but I don't really have the time or inclination with a big truck. I'll hit some grease zerks on the front end and top up the fluids as needed but otherwise I let the Kenworth dealer do it so there' s a record of it, which the company wants every quarter. I usually have other requests for them to look at. Last time I had them retorque the front u-bolts which quieted down the clunk/pop in the front end going around a corner. Stuff like that I aint doing.
     
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