question(s) for the Mechanics

My '86 Pete (std fleet truck) has 3.55's with 11R22.5's, powered by BC4 (315 hp), straight 9 spd.

 

I Googled that myself after your? Had to put in Tec engine brake. It is a Jake knock off made in Mexico. Installed several of those for O/O 's years ago. Never had a complaint.

 

I can appreciate someone working over old iron. I put a lot of time into my truck to get it right.

That's the right thing to do to work it over like you are doing. I'd like to make a few suggestions of things to think about doing.

Pressure test the radiator and put a new cap on it. Consider putting a new water pump in and thermostats along with a new idler pulley and belts and hoses. Make sure that you have good antifreeze with the right additives. I use 1 million mile o a t anti-freeze. Check your accessory drive for excessive play and replace it if you need to. Is probably a good idea to service your oil cooler. I would also replace the block heater.

Make sure that the overhead is set before you start and at that point it probably is a good idea to put injectors in.

Check your tanks and make sure you don't have algae in them or anything that can clog up that pump after you get it worked on. It is also a good idea to replace the fuel lines from the tank forward because old lines can collapse and cause you problems.

If the truck is unknown to you it probably is a good idea to pull the pan down and replace the bearings.

I can't remember the mileage interval but it may also be a good idea to replace the harmonic balancer. Every so many miles they do need to be replaced.

If the truck sat it is a good idea to replace the seal on the rear of the transmission and to replace the pinion seals and all of the wheel seals along with changing fluid in the rears and the transmission. Also put new vents on the Rears. Check all the universals and the center bushing. I know you are replacing brakes and air Chambers and drums and whatnot make sure to check the s cams don't have excessive play in the bushings and shafts.

And even if it works change the wiper switch. Myself I would also change the wiper motor along with the sprayer because if that goes out when you are on the road it's bad news.

That is some of the things that I did to my truck.

If later on you're interested in the jake brakes let me know. I'll probably have them unless I get back to another selling spree getting rid of my excess inventory.

That will be a cool truck when you get it rolling. Do whatever you can to make it dependable so that you don't have to stop while you're working. Then it will mostly be maintenance and little things.

The money that you put out beforehand will come back to you. You will have less headaches and will feel better about everything and will have less stress.

My .02 cents.

 

Sorry it's been a while since I've updated you guys. The 5th wheel finally got welded on properly, my console lights work now, and trying to find a regulator for the drvr window that isn't $300 - brand new.

After this, I believe it will have what it needs to pass a DOT inspection. But I'd like to get Alcoa's all around with virgins, and an Espar heater.

A couple of weeks ago, I took my work truck there for an air leak, and took mine home. Went to hook it up to the boss' trailer, and it wouldn't latch. Good thing too. Noticed there was no release handle. lol

I brought it to their attention, and they were a little embarrassed, but I told them it was no biggie. #### happens, you know?

Espar heater would be about $2k installed, and the rims/tires will be $3k.

My boss just bought another truck, and it has an APU. I told him if it works, I'll take it. Would be about the same to have that installed (install only, not including the unit) vs the Espar (unit + install), but then I would be able to do a Texas run in the summer with it, if I have a functioning APU. Not to mention, if I decide to sell it, that will help the value a smidge.

Also, before I put it on the road, send the oil out for analysis, and have a PM done

 

Make sure, if you send the oil out for analysis that they test and give you the AN number for the oil.... AN# is the acid level....most test places dont even look at it. If the oil has been in that engine a long time or your unsure of really how long it sat before an oil change or even during normal use it will give you a good idea of how things are inside that motor....obviously the higher the AN the worse things are.

 

What sample company's do the AN /Acid Level Test ?

 

They will all do it if you ask usually.....

 

here is an updated pic btw. One of the ... i'm drawing a blank ... they're connected to the cab jack, and lock the cab in place when it's down ... that thing ... it's leaking, so i can't jack the cab up completely, so that's what they're looking at next.

and as for

I read your post word for word to the shop and they're going to check into all of that as well