Realistic Fuel and Mechanical expectations?

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Hurst, Dec 5, 2012.

  1. Hurst

    Hurst Registered Member

    6,618
    12,266
    Aug 24, 2011
    Tampa, Fl
    0
    I'm sure this topic has also been beat to death,.. and I did do a search. But I'm trying to get detailed info and what I found in other posts was bias'd and not exactly what I was looking for. I'd like to make a spreadsheet to evaluate. Hopefully when the time comes I can make a better educated decision based on other drivers experience,.. not just my own.

    In approx 10 - 12 months from now I am moving on to my next and final stepping stone for ownership and thats getting my own truck and authority. I have the legalities and sole proprietorship end of it covered. I've also already made a few business contacts and have things set in motion for a dedicated income that will at least get me started so I dont go broke in my first 90 days.

    I'm going to make another thread in the 'Experienced' drivers section regarding this same topic. How ever,.. I hope to get detailed fuel and mechanical statistics from company driver. So if if you are a company driver please dont post your info here. I have another thread for you in the other section.

    I'm asking O/O's only here. Company drivers please look in 'Experienced Drivers' to add your input there. Thanks guys.

    1: Full specs of your tractor. Year make model and mileage. Please include Engine, trans and rear gear ratio.
    If on your 2nd/3rd engine (Inframe etc), how many miles before you reached that point and how many since then?

    2: What type of trailer are you pulling?

    3: How is your average loaded weight?

    4: What is your overall average MPG?

    5: What lane/s do you mainly run?
    (This is for me to get an idea of which geographic location to stay in if I can financially work the logistics out)

    6: What speed do you typically cruise at?

    7: How would you spec your next truck?

    8: How reliable is your current rig?
    (Any mechanical/electrical issues that are really bugging you. Anything you wished you had spec'd a little differently?)

    This is for Reefer owners out there. I plan to run reefer.
    9: I'm pretty much set on either a Utility or Great Dane (Carrier or Thermo King),.. my question is how new of a unit should I look for? How many hours on the unit would you say is too many and I should look at something else? Any compliancy issues I should be aware of? I'd like to be able to run in and out of Cali and the North East as well,.. particularly when the seasons hit.

    ----------------------------------------------------------------

    I'm currently still a company driver, but this is the info I am looking for.

    2008 KW T660, 72" Studio sleeper, Clean Power APU.
    C15 ACERT CAT @ 475hp, 18 spd, 3.25 gear ratio, 19,200lbs curb weight.
    509551 miles with 10,260 hrs. Average overall MPG is 6.27

    I pull 53' Reefer.

    I am typically loaded with 41k - 44k in the box. This will put me anywhere from 78k to 80+k gross weight. I have twin 150 gal tanks, I always have to fuel after I get loaded so I know how much fuel I can carry. With 44k in the box I can only fuel up to 5/8 - 3/4 tank. Still plenty for me to travel on.

    I run I80 coast to coast. Stockton Cali area to New England area and back are my main lanes.
    Depending on the season and how loads get dispatched, I will head up into Washington state or go down to Bakersfield Cali and then head east. Chelsae Market is a typical destination point.

    I typically cruise at 65 - 67 mph depending on the terrain. Sometimes need a little extra oomph to get up the hills when grossed out.

    How would I spec my next truck?

    Well thats what I am here to ask you guys. I am biased and love my T660. This truck is fully spec'd. Has all the bells and whistles. Maybe one with the 86" Studio sleeper and a different APU that can handle a little more would probably be my only upgrades. The bunk heater only has 2 settings,.. On or Off. So even when its 20f outside,.. it will get like a steam room in here in less than 5 mins when its on. Wish it had a thermostat.

    Reliability? This motor has had some issues.
    ARD head went out at 376k (Covered under warranty)
    Broke a rocker and Jake dropped a valve at 398k 1 piston and new head had to be ordered. (Covered under warranty)
    Bearings in top turbo went out at 433k (Covered under warranty)
    Alternator quit working at 451k, killed the batteries with it. (Not covered by warranty - $1600,.. Special Alt for the Clean Power, Alt alone was $1000 at cost)
    ARD head went out again at 477k (Covered by warranty)
    Right now I am dealing with a cold leak from the tube above the EGR cooler. Its in a location that is under the turbos and nearly impossible to get at with out removing something. Managed to tighten the hose clamp a little bit and seems to have stopped the cold drip. But only a matter of time before it comes back.
    Up to 509k and so far so good. Besides a problematic tag light on the tractor that keeps blowing bulbs,.. no electrical issues to report.

    Thanks guys.
    Drive safe,...

    Hurst
     
  2. Truckers Report Jobs

    Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds

    Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.

  3. Pound Puppy

    Pound Puppy Heavy Load Member

    974
    868
    May 31, 2010
    Amherst, OH
    0
    I have a 05' Freightliner Century with full fairings, 10L 60 series detroit with a 10 speed and 3.58 rear. I run the midwest now from Wi to Pa on a dedicated run 22,000lbs avg. weight. I get about 6.8mpg, I run 65mph unless im time crunched which is rare. This truck has been fairly reliable, I keep on to of the maintence and grease and air the tires every two weeks. I have 815,000mi and I change the oil every 15k, I can,get away with more but I feel more comfortable at that interval. I used to run reefer coast to coast, my fuel mileage was 6.1 mostly because of increased idleing in the summer as I dont have an apu. My next truck Id like an International Pro Star with a 525 Cummins ISX.and a 13 spd with a 3.36 rear. My reasoning is this. Pro Stars are very fuel efficient designed with low wind resistance in mind, the Cummins I like because theyre easy to find a mechanic and parts to work on. The transmission because it acts as an overdrive in top gear, but allows for good pulling tbru downshifting. The rears because in my experience 3.36's seem to be the perfect balance between pulling power and fuel efficiency. My next truck will have a Dynasis APU, they have full thermostats and are the top rated for mechanical reliability. I pull a dry van now I forgot to mention. I suggest keeping up on youre suspension, change the shocks at 150,000miles and king pins at the first sign of trouble. The vibration caused by not keeping up can cause excessive damage to youre truck. Unfortunately EGR problems and Turbo problems are a fact of life with these new engines. Theres no way around it. I replaced both once in 3 years Ive had this truck, everything else has been usual wear and tear like shocks, water pump, fan clutch. I hope and pray things work out for you, good luck!
     
  4. Pound Puppy

    Pound Puppy Heavy Load Member

    974
    868
    May 31, 2010
    Amherst, OH
    0
    I meant 14L detroit, not 10.
     
  5. Hurst

    Hurst Registered Member

    6,618
    12,266
    Aug 24, 2011
    Tampa, Fl
    0
    Great info.
    I'm leaning toward the Cummins over the CAT myself. We have a couple other T660 with the ISX Cummins, one is 525 the other is at 475, probably detuned. Both are 13 spd trucks. I've driven the 525hp truck and compared to mine the throttle response is instantaneous. Mine seems to have a slight half second hesitation. Not sure is thats a CAT trait or what. Turbo lag due to being 2 of them in a compound configuration. Not sure. The Cummins also had a slightly stronger jake than mine. Mine is good,.. but the other truck held stronger in the upper gears where this one I will have to slow down and down shift more unless I want to keep stabbing the brake the whole way down. The other thing was where this truck will go beyond limp mode and shut off all together when ever the DPF/ARD head have issues. Worst case scenario with the ISX is that it goes into limp mode when the EGR craps out. Dont have to pay for a costly tow,.. can still make a delivery or limp it to get serviced.

    I drove an older Volvo yrs ago that had the smaller 11L 60 Series Detroit. Pulled a 7 car trailer with it and averaged 7 - 8 mpg with it. That truck was plagued with electrical gremlins. Mechanically the Detroit was sound,.. but had absolutely no balls, especially with the 10 spd. Also didnt have a jake,.. but this was in Fla, so it wasnt that critical. Only hauled local,.. no OTR.

    Are the king pins something that all trucks have issues with or are some more prone to it than others? For example,.. this truck is starting to eat the front right tire where its cupping on the outside edge. I am religious about checking and filling my air pressure on a daily basis. I have one rim on the rear of the tractor that has a slow leak coming from the valve stem. Owner hasnt fixed it in over 7 months now that I keep reporting it. It loses 5lbs of air every 24 hrs. So while I have the hose out, I check and fill the others as needed everyday. Its becoming my pre-trip routine. I have almost 80k miles on my steers, tread is still good with more than 75%. Just that one thats cupping on the edge. Wondering if a king pin would cause that with just over 500k miles?

    Whats your opinion on mileage for a truck? With a proper maintenance record, what should I look for? I'm not looking to buy a new truck,.. but I do have a 647 credit score and shouldnt have too much trouble financing anything I want. Reason I am waiting 10 - 12 more months is that I want to have at least $30k cash saved up before I go it alone. I want to have enough to cover me until I get an income stream coming in.

    Thank you.
     
  6. bubbanbrenda

    bubbanbrenda Road Train Member

    1,388
    650
    Feb 27, 2011
    Middletown,Oh.
    0
    Wow youv'e got a lot of questions, so OK here I go...just remember you started it.
    1:2005 KW T-600 C-15 475/1850 10 over 3.55 rears,original engine except for head and turbos,1,040,233 mi.
    2:Smooth bore tank
    3:this ones kinda tricky when I'm loaded its right up to 80,000 but I run a lot of dedicated and I'm empty40-50% of the time.
    4: 6.7
    5:Mid west; Oh. Ky, In, Il,W.Va, Mi.
    6:stay right at the posted limit give or take 2-3 mph
    7:If $ was no object i would build a "new 660 glider with a Haney tuned Acert, 13 or 18 spd 6x2 (yes that correct 2) with 2.64 rear and the back axle would be a lift/tag
    8: Current truck is an excellant truck would drive it anywhere(if the rate is good), the only thing I would change would be the trans and rears and I am going to put a Haney tune on it in the spring.
    9:can't really help with this one tried reefer 25 yrs ago took about 2 weeks to know it wasn't for me.
    My truck has a 86" sleeper NOT studio, just because thats the way it came. but I only know 1 guy that likes his "Studio" and he never put the sofa back up (leaves it folded out to a bed like mine),I'm just sayin...the extra space is nice but I would prefer a 72" (preferably an aerocab-flattop) because it would work better in my application, pulling a reefer an aerocab with a cap would be better. In my opinion(and thats all it is I'm not looking to argue or debate this)$30,000 is not enough to start (unless you mean reserve above and beyond your start up cost). If I was starting fresh and had about $45,000 I would put $15,000 down on a retired Melton truck or Trans-Am truck. They both have mechanically sound equipment with high end APU's.Meltons trucks are a little better equipped driver comfort-wise but the price reflects that. Werner also has some nice equipment for sale but I think they are kind of pricey, but they fix EVERYTHING before you take delivery,My brother-in-law bought one a couple of years ago and it was 72 days after he picked it out to take delivery, but in their defense they replaced ALL the glass, 10 tires and wheels( he wanted 24.5) painted both truck body and frame, 2 new seats, a trip to Cat's dyno to verify warrenty eligability,His only complaint was he should have picked one with an APU.(his own fault). What ever truck you decide to buy make sure you let Mr. Haney wave his magic wand over it for reliability and economy. If the bunk heater your talking about is an ESPAR heater, you can buy a digital thermostat for it it will plug right into where your on/off switch plugs in now, (and you can remove it and put the old switch back later when you get your own truck)here again I'm not looking for a fight or debate but the '09 and up cummins seem to have a cam problem @ about 5-600,000 mi. Look around this forum there is plenty of talk/advise about them, Type Cummins Cam into the search box at the top of the page and see for yourself.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2012
  7. Pound Puppy

    Pound Puppy Heavy Load Member

    974
    868
    May 31, 2010
    Amherst, OH
    0
    I have never been a Cat fan, they are more expensive to work on and typically must be rebuilt around 900,000 miles. My Detroit pulls good, I cant ckmplain and I expect to get 1.1 million before an overhaul..

    I would go with the 525 if you can. I feel more confident that it will be a better motor, it will still have the same egr problems that plague newer engines.

    Kingpins usually can hold out 500-700,000miles depending on how often theyre greased and also they road conditions. Thats why its good too keep up on shocks, it softens the beating the king pins and bushings take. Eating a steer tire could be a number of things. Tire balance (I run centramatics on all wheel positions which helps a lot), bad shock causing tire bounce, bearings,kingpins, bushings, or allignment. King pin wear is usually when you get a left to right constant shake in your steering wheel.
     
  8. Pound Puppy

    Pound Puppy Heavy Load Member

    974
    868
    May 31, 2010
    Amherst, OH
    0
    In buying a truck, I would stay around 425,000mi. In my opinion at that point any major problems with the truck should have surfaced. Plus you will have some remaining factory warranty. I would not buy from a leasing company ie. Ryder, Penske etc.. They typically do not grease the trucks as often and when they do repairs they take the cheapest route possible.

    As far as what truck I gave my opinion earlier, but ultimately its going to be what you are comfortable in.
     
  9. Hurst

    Hurst Registered Member

    6,618
    12,266
    Aug 24, 2011
    Tampa, Fl
    0
    The $30k I almost have is strictly to cover start up costs, Tags, IFTA, BOC-3, DBA, Permits and registrations needed to get my authority. Then to have enough liquid capitol so I can immediately pay off fuel cards and cover any maintenance needed or break downs that may occur that are not covered under warranty, if I get a warranty at all.

    The initial tractor and trailer purchases will have no bearing on my liquid capitol at all. They will be 100% financed from the onset. This will be a make it or break me operation. I will use my home equity to raise additional capitol if needed. I know another guy who started with much less than I am and 2 yrs later he is already purchasing his second truck and putting a driver in it. He is a ruthless prick,.. but I think that is why he has succeeded so far.

    This is where my goals are heading. I have followed through with everything needed to reach my goals so far. I've come too far to quit now. I thoroughly enjoy what I do. Just dont like the fact that my efforts are lining someone elses pockets. I guess greed and providing a better life for my family are what motivate me. If in the end it was all for nothing,.. then at least I will have the knowledge that I gave it my best shot. But I dont want to spend my ending days with regret that I never tried.

    Thanks,

    Hurst
     
  10. milskired

    milskired Road Train Member

    3,829
    1,401
    Jul 20, 2007
    Plainfield, IL
    0
    Keep in mind in a year IIRC you will have to have a CARB compliant truck if you want to get into California. Also you probably already know your reefer unit has to be CARB compliant already. From what ive heard the DPF Cat motors are pretty bad as you have had your experience with the head having to be replaced. Tto much heat does a number on a motor.
     
  11. rollin coal

    rollin coal Road Train Member

    13,637
    28,034
    Mar 29, 2008
    TN
    0
    I'd go with a CAT motor but definely not an '08 or up SDP - DPF version. The head did crack on mine at 750K but it's a bridge motor, surprising it went that long being unbridged as it was at the time. It had to be overhauled at 1.1 million miles. Other than that the only other thing that happened to it was a PacBrake spring broke around 980K miles and that cost $350 to have all 12 of them replaced at a CAT house. A turbo to manifold gasket blew out right before the overhaul had to be done.. Water pump, oil pump all that other stuff was original. I believe the oil cooler was replaced under warranty by the first owner. If it's never in the shop for anything breaking it really doesn't matter what they charge for parts... I wish everything else was as dependable as the motor but eventually stuff breaks...

    That $30K you are mentioning for startup money running your own authority seems kind of thin but I dunno maybe you can pull it off... I'm just thinking with the year model truck you are looking at, '08 thru '10 are the absolute worst and most costly maintinence intensive trucks out there (due to the stopgap unreliable DPF/EGR compenents) a person can burn thru $10K fairly quickly... My fuel cost alone runs about $5K a month but I only run about 1,500 miles a week in a year.. Maybe you will run more miles I dont know. Some guys burn thru $7.5 to $10K a month in fuel... I guess if you are factoring this won;t be too big of a deal.. If you are waiting on the checks 30 days to get paid on average if you do a fairly quick job of processing the POD's... it will likely be more than that.. Can you float that much for fuel for that long? Do you have 3 months of household expenses above and beyond that $30 truck fund? Even knowing what I do now that I can make money with a truck, if my current equipment and funds were all taken away, I would definitely not borrow any money to get into it... I certainly would not risk my house on a trucking business... I would save money over the course of a few short years and set it up for success from the get go...
     
    dannythetrucker Thanks this.
  • Truckers Report Jobs

    Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds

    Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.