Removing whale fin on W900

Yeah completely different. His looked like it could be changeable. Just lose the bracket on the top back and he could probably go with the 3 ears style.

 

What was the improvement, a 4th ear so they could charge you more?...

I've heard about the DD's having this problem and for th elife of me don't understand why. My dad had a 94 KW with a DD in it and it had the 3 ear, never had any problems.

 

You shouldn't be paying taxes.

 

those 3 ear alts --heck i think even the 4 ear ones could wear out the mounts if the bolts loosen at all--some even wear the the mount hole out even if bolt isnt loose--
i love those pad mout ones--nice and quick to change --no pissing around with locknuts and brackets

 

Our T-8 is the quad mount, our T-6 is the pad mount, both Detroits. The pad uses a different bracket to mount on, of course, and it uses a serpentine belt instead of v-belts. I don't know if it would be worth the money to change it, I left ours as they were. One of the first things my mechanic told me about the Detroits was to pay attention to bolt that the alternator (quad mount I mean) mounts on that goes through the front cover. He said if that one gets loose it can wear on the front housing and cover, then you've got problems.

I'll try to take a picture of both of ours so you can see the difference.

If you've got an ICC number, they should give you a form to fill out, and then your replacement parts should be tax free. To heck with deducting it, it'll save you money up front.

 

I'd hope for $400 in parts that would be all silicone hose, and include all of the radiator/engine hoses and the good (constant torque I think they're called) clamps, and putting in new coolant. And that still sounds high. I did all of mine with silicone when I replaced my air compressor last fall, and it seems like I spent about $200 on hose and clamps, and I had enough of both left over to replace anything that leaked. For that $625 they quoted you, you can do it yourself and have enough left over to buy a good set of tools. You can do it. It'll probably be easier than removing those interior panels in the sleeper was.

Adjusting auto-slacks is easy too, and something you need to learn-they're the kind of thing that don't always work like they're supposed to, or at least not for me. I'm not here to argue about the certification, but the thread going about that has me thinking about printing a form for myself. I've adjusted brakes for people shut down at scales in TN and NC, and didn't have a problem, but there's always that first time.