REPLACE EVERYTHING MY AC STILL NOT WORKING :(

have them to the 2 schrader valves

 

I meant check the the schrader valves

 

Is your truck r134 or R1234yf?

You could buy a can with a gauge and monitor static pressure. They won't be accurate and the ac needs to be off overnight. It takes a long time for pressure to equalize between low and high. But that'll tell you if your leaking at least.

The last 2 FL's I drove. (12 and 16) Required a reset when the ac would quit. Which wasn't often.

I don't know if peterbilt has that. You might google.

If your truck is 1234. You'll have to ask the parts guy for a can. Some have said they've bought it but I have yet to see it on the shelves. I'm guessing maybe because it's pricey. So it stays in the back room.

134 shouldn't be higher then 125 static psi in the southern heat. It contracts as the Temps cool down so it'll be less in the north.

If you have 1234. I can't give much info yet. I'm just getting started with that one. Just recently purchased gauges and 10 lb cylinder to the tune of $600.

 

134 contains pag oil. And is dyed green.

If you have a leak. You should have traces of green. If it's the evaporator. That's inside the cab. You'll need a leak detector to test the vents air flow. Fan on, blowing air will emit and sound the detector at the vents.

Course. It should make you sick and dizzy also. Or might.

 

The short answer is yes, its absolutely vital, being up to 250 degrees on the hot side, -250 on the cold side, and then all the equipment inside produces waste heat. That will have to be shed in order to not cook everyone.

There are liquid loops to equalize the temperature inside, as well as loops that shed excess heat on the cold side of the solar panels, the shuttle itself apparently shed the heat by using loops in the cargo bay, if the doors wouldnt open, they would have to deorbit fast.

The other big differences though are that the spacecraft are extremely well insulated, in contrast to the joke that is insulation in a truck. Likewise, a truck cab is very lossy in terms of air exchange from outside.

And lastly, they integrate co2 scrubbers in the ac system as well.

 

CHECK THE GROUND WIRE FOR THE AC COMPRESSOR IT USUALLY GOES DOWN TO THE STARTER GROUND THEN TO THE FRAME IT GETS WORN OUT AND CAN CAUSE UR AC COMPRESSOR TO ENGAGE AND DISENGAGE RANDOMLY

 

OP hasn’t been seen, since they started the thread.

BCM needs updated, is the most logical.

 

What's with the yelling?

 

My 579 ac isn't working because of the temp sensor in the mirror having a broken wire.

 

MY CAPS WAS ON AND I DIDNT LOOK