Replacing king pin for first time

Discussion in 'Experienced Truckers' Advice' started by Muddydog79, Feb 26, 2017.

  1. Muddydog79

    Muddydog79 Heavy Load Member

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    gonna be replacing a kingpin and wheel bearing tomorow and ive never actually replaced a kingpin before. Anybody got any tips or tricks that would help before i start?
     
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  3. tucker

    tucker Road Train Member

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    I have no ideal, let us know how you did it, that's one tough peice of metal
     
  4. CSDixon

    CSDixon Light Load Member

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  5. Ridgeline

    Ridgeline Road Train Member

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    Yeah have a shop do it, then have a good alignment done.

    Oh and you don't replace one, but both at the same time.
     
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  6. Muddydog79

    Muddydog79 Heavy Load Member

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    Watched those videos on youtube the other day. That guy dont go into much detail and it was like watchin a video on how to defuse a bomb with binoculars. Thanks for posting them though. The driver side kingpin is fine, no slop at all, and to save down time im just replacing one right now. I will have it realigned though.
     
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  7. DougA

    DougA Road Train Member

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    Rarely are two kingpin jobs the same.Some fall out,others have to be beaten out with heat.Remove your wheel,brakes,backing plates,tie rod,spyder.Remove tapered locking pin in axle eye,and top and bottom caps on spindle.Drive king pin out,hopefully comes out easy.Make sure your play was not in the axle itself,whole different job,then.In severe cases,have had to remove axle,and press pin out.Knock or cut old bushings out of spindle,carefully press in new ones.Keep an eye on how things come apart,not rocket science.Unless you have the right size reamer,you'll have to take your spindles to a truck front end shop to get your pins fitted.Put it all back together,the way it came apart.You will have to shim the new king pin bearing to get any play out.Shims should come in your kingpin kit.Once back together,grease well,spin both wheels and scribe center line on both tires.Have someone hold your tape measure,check front and back measurements.Toe in adjust tie rod to 1/8.Hope this helps,haven't done one for while,but that's how we did it in the old days,don't think much has changed,unless you have tapered king pins.Never fooled with them.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2017
    Lepton1 and OLDSKOOLERnWV Thank this.
  8. bowtieboy77

    bowtieboy77 Light Load Member

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    Do you have torches? There has been times where the pin is seized and you will have to cut the thrust bearing to access pin to cut it so spindle can come off to allow better access to the seized pin. Technically you should not heat the axle but if the pin is seized you do what is required. I have also had to cut/ or drill out the king pin lock bolts. Do you have a machine shop ready to size the bushings if needed. Some bushings are pre sized some are not and need sizing after they are driven into the spindle. There is also possibility you might need new drag link or tie rod end depending on if cotter pin breaks and if you can drill/ punch it out. I am tempted to say if you have never done them or have to ask how to do them it might be something to have more experienced person do. You are dealing with steering and brakes is it worth the risk? If you insist on doing them (I say them because as stated above you do both not one side) good luck they can be a job that goes smoothly or they can fight you every step of the way.
     
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  9. OLDSKOOLERnWV

    OLDSKOOLERnWV Captain Redbeard

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    Done them in a few over the years. Louisville Ford twin screw, International S-1800, my 67 F100, a F700. Hope you have a concrete floor, rose bud, sledge hammer, angle grinder, brake hone, just for a few you will most likely need. Have you bought the new replacement kit? If so does it have nylon or bronze bushings? What truck you working on? Surely be a few around here to help you through it. Most will have a wedge pin that holds the kingpin from moving....lol, not that it should move under a press fit. Make sure wedge pin notch is in the right position before installing the pin, you'll be very mad if it's not ;).
     
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  10. OLDSKOOLERnWV

    OLDSKOOLERnWV Captain Redbeard

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    And DougA is correct, not all are the same!! Some will be tighter than Dick's hat band, and others will come out fairly easy. A good heavy set of crib timbers under the axle where the leaf spring is mounted is more secure to me than a stand. I usually place a flat steel plate on top the timber, but that's me everyone is different. If the pin is tight and you keep hammering on it, you will mushroom the top of the pin, that's where the grinder comes in. When you get ready to install the new one, throw it in the freezer overnight, it does help.
     
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  11. OLDSKOOLERnWV

    OLDSKOOLERnWV Captain Redbeard

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    Don't forget about the race.....
     
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