Rooftop AC

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by SHC, Mar 29, 2012.

  1. Hurst

    Hurst Registered Member

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    Good friend of mine does custom metal fabrication and does meticulous work.

    Doing a window setup is very easy. The glass is a lot stronger than you think. Here is how I did mine.

    This is an 8500 BTU window unit. Does a fantastic job of cooling my behemoth condo sleeper. Not all brands are as efficient,.. so be ware,.. not all 8000 - 8500 units will cool the same. The 8500 BTU LG I had before this one did not cool any better than a cheap 6500 BTU Haire until I have at home. So I replaced it with the Frigidaire. I usually keep the Fridigaire set at 69 and it will maintain that temp even on the hottest sun baked days. It will freeze me out if I set it down to 65.

    The rack it self uses both the window glass and the door frame as support. I have rubber pads on the inside so there is no actual metal to glass contact. I can open and close the door with the AC running.
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    This is the view from the inside. Lowes sells window sill 4x4 foam padded insulation strips in a plastic bag. Thats what you see between the AC and the window frame over the left side and top of the AC. The block of wood is used to tilt the AC away from the door so on humid days the water drips to the ground and not inside the door.
    [​IMG]

    Hurst
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2016
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  3. Hurst

    Hurst Registered Member

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    In your case a generator to keep the batteries charged would most likely solve your problem.

    The Honda EU3000is has a 12 amp DC lead. Unfortunately you can not use the DC and AC together on the 3000. There is a smaller 2000,.. but it only has an 8 or 9 amp DC lead and depending on the draw of your AC system,.. I'm not sure that would be enough.

    Hurst
     
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  4. OSCBRADLEY

    OSCBRADLEY Light Load Member

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    Thank you, I was hoping that was the case......However.......I plugged into shore power, ran the a/c at lowest setting and lowest fan speed possible and it ran for a very long time (i got excited at this point).....but when I dropped cool setting to halfway into the blue (vs. just before it turned red) and increased fan speed to 4 (max of 8), it died out within an hour. Could be I used to much battery power running it for almost 10 hours on low and it just didnt have enough left in it to run any harder......I'll continue to experiment.
     
  5. OSCBRADLEY

    OSCBRADLEY Light Load Member

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    Houston, Texas
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    Not sure what happened there when i replied to you.......anyways, thanks for the info!! I was really hoping the generator would be my solution to keeping the batteries charged. I have no concerns about installing a roof a/c unit but figure i may as well try and make what I've already got work......I have no idea what the ParkSmart draws as far as amps (im assuming thats what determines what size genny i will need?"......should there be a sticker or something on it? do you think the knuckleheads at the local Freightliner shop would know?
     
  6. Hurst

    Hurst Registered Member

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    I honestly do not know. I would knock on a few doors and find out. Someone has to know that system and give you what you need to know.

    Hurst
     
  7. Superhauler

    Superhauler TEACHER OF MEN

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    Ever think about one of those stand alone a/c that you run the exhaust tube to the outside? That's what I bought. 12000 btu. It is an LG with remote control. I took my upper bunk out and built a shelf to sit it on. The exhaust tube lines right up with my upper bunk window. It will frost the windows up on a 102 deg. Alabama day! I will try and send pics shortly.
     
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  8. Hurst

    Hurst Registered Member

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    I have one at home in my office now. My office is basically a converted Florida room that has no heat/AC vents. The indoor/upright AC is a 10,000 BTU. Has a long exhaust tube that I send out the doggy door. Has a tray that collects condensation/water.

    I've read about a much better unit that eliminates the condensation tray. There is still the exhaust tube. My thinking was to put it inside the cabinet behind the passenger seat. Send the exhaust tube either out the side of the sleeper with a dryer vent with flap to keep the rain/snow out,.. or straight down through the floor underneath the truck.

    I use my upper bunk as a storage rack. Took out the mattress.

    Not sure which route I take. Leaning more toward a roof mount for my next truck. The indoor unit I have at home even though its rated as 10,000 BTU,. it struggles to keep the room cool. Not sure if thats because of the design or if I just bought a cruddy unit.

    Hurst
     
  9. Superhauler

    Superhauler TEACHER OF MEN

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    I think it has alot to do with the brand. My exhaust hose is only 6 inches long. The shorter the less it has to work to expel the heat. Mine also has a catch tray with a drain I just hook a hose up and ran it outside with the power cord.
     
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  10. Terry270

    Terry270 Road Train Member

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    Yes please post some pics. I think most of us would rather have a simple upright AC with an exhaust tube and a drain tube to route under the truck but all that I've heard about them is that they're junk. How big is your cab?
     
  11. Cowpie1

    Cowpie1 Road Train Member

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    That is the beauty of a Xantrex inverter / charger like I have. My portable generator plugs right into the shore power outlet for it and all power is run thru to charge batteries. None of the little 8 or 9 amp DC tickle charging stuff. Full 55 amp DC charging of the batteries that the Xantrex provides from 120AC coming in from my little Yamaha EF2000 portable.
     
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