New input shaft was quoted to me at just under $200. Just the shaft though. Drive gear was fine. Just too much wear on the clutch splines. Seal and bearing are in the basic rebuild kit. RTX-15615. It has an RTO cover on it though.
Okay, it may be new enough that it did not come with the threaded input shaft. I did an aftermarket clutch install kit as my input was worn pretty bad on my 12513, that was quite the adventure to change.
Its a chore on mine. Mainshaft needs to come out, which means the back box needs to come off so that the upper countershaft can come out. Rear countershaft bearings need to be pounded out with a long drift as per the manual. So you're pretty much into half a rebuild just by changing out the input shaft lol.
Yeah, all the literature I found for the threaded input called for the entire assembly to come out through the case and have the locking nut removed on the bench. The heck with that, once the nut comes off it can be changed like a normal one with just removing a few snap rings from the outside. Ended up taking a cutoff wheel to get the nut off, I was not happy by the time I got it finished, I will never attempt a complete trans rebuild.
It gets easier after you have done a few. I changed quite a few RT12510's to RTO12510. 10 speed direct with 4:11 rears was very common. The over drive conversion was popular after the national speed limit 55 mph was rescinded.
Well I got a deal. Supplier couldn't get the expensive shift fork in a timely matter so they threw in a very slightly used one at no cost. WIN!
I hate to here you did all the work if an input shaft was your only problem. They will come out the front.The nut is left hand threaded and staked. A custom made punch can open the stakes and a air hammer will unscrew it. Lock two sliding clutches in at the same time to lock it. There are special tools for this or just torch off. At least you know yours will be 100%.
