securement

Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by tsavory, Apr 5, 2014.

  1. tsavory

    tsavory Road Train Member

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    Ok I would like to know how people over come the lack of down force on loads that are the same height. I had a load of 1"x6" that was banded but after getting it tight and going down the road a bit the straps squeezed the outsides together and they started to V and after a bit one side jumped over the top of the other which caused boards to be lose and start slipping out the back. ended up taking one board each top bundle and putting it at angle which added a bit more down force. but receivers tend to not like getting loads that can't just get stacked on top of each other with out rearranging it.

    Also I carry a bunch of cut stone and sometimes it three skinny pallets wide and therefore center set can slide front to back. Now on the last one like this I used tennis balls under straps witch seemed to work pretty well as the strap wrapped then added a bit of down force yet if they came out they would not destroy someones windshield such as using a board or something harder. But would love more ideas
     
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  3. Cluck Cluck

    Cluck Cluck LTL Wizard

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    I try to pull to both sides of the load. I'm assuming you're talking about 1" by 6" lumber? I throw 1 strap pulling 1 direction one pulling the other
     
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  4. Cluck Cluck

    Cluck Cluck LTL Wizard

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    I've also seen guys block up the front of the bundles on the front and the back of the bundles on the back
     
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  5. tsavory

    tsavory Road Train Member

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    It pulles the sides in kinda pinchs it so I get plenty of side to side no down in the middle
     
  6. MJ1657

    MJ1657 Road Train Member

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    You could cut a piece of dunnage short so the strap would squeeze the load but not allow the center to pop up.
     
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  7. baha

    baha Road Train Member

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    Lay one of the dunnage across the top side to side with strap over it, no more pop/up,the wood they use under the wood you can use on top of load to keep wood from pop up same wood is laying all over loading spot.
     
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  8. tsavory

    tsavory Road Train Member

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    Great when you have extra had to use theirs as I did not have enough had 8 needed 10. I thought of that but even if had most dunage I have and they have is the longer than the load was wide so would loss the pulling pressure I think so would have to carry a saw to cut a few inches off

    Cluck I did on last load worked great to keep slipping out back but the 1" would still pop I think just thinking I may need to carry about 8 1x3 cut around three foot. Thats just a pain till I get my headache rack built since I swap trailers multiple times a week and they dont have any boxes no real good place to store them on the trailer would be great even having to move every swap but a lot of these lumber loads seem to go from bulkhead to hanging off the back with our 48' traliers so no room on trailer.
    Hmm not trying to knock any ideas just trying find out if I am wrong and get some new thoughts I know it may seem I have a reason most wont work and these are just my thoughts on them and as we all know nothing can replace multiple load checks
     
  9. Ruthless

    Ruthless Road Train Member

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    A tarp would keep that 1by from walking... ;) lol
     
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  10. tsavory

    tsavory Road Train Member

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    yeah it would but why spend an hour + on both ends for no extra pay and on a no tarp lumber load. I like work but I am not in to working harder when there is a way to work smarter and sometime it means asking questions. LOL
    I think I am a fairly smart guy and can solve most problems but smart men also know there are others smarter than them and/or have found ways others would not think of.
    I know as of yet I have not seen any other straps with tennis balls added a bit of down pressure just on a lumber load would need a dozen per strap LOL picking up some of those 2or 3 inch thick kids float tubes to try as they are only about 3 foot long and should add a bit of down force cost only a few bucks and are soft and should be safe enough IF they should come out I personally hate using boards I have watch to many of them fall off other truck and hit cars. Plus boards are stiff and with out a headache rack hard to find room for them but the float tubes bend and can be stored in a side box.

    Most places have a 2X on the tops banded to the bundles so no pop up from strap squeeze and road bounce just had one the other day that the 2x's where just on the bottom. Receiver had guys out re stacking and banding several loads worth RIGHT(2x's on the top) so I know I was not the only one that had this problem.
     
  11. tsavory

    tsavory Road Train Member

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    Here lets try another Question anyone haul those thin fencing sections you can but at lowes? I had a load the other day that had two wide then on top a pack that was as tall as the two were wide so they set them the opposite direction no Biggy I thought strapped down as tight as was willing to go as that thin stuff breaks easily a bit down the road it shifted a little so tightened up more was close to breaking them and went a few more miles noticed it shifted even more got out and looked closely the banding was going different directions and the 2x's where not those that have the grove so it was that thin narrow slick banding on thin narrow slick banding so it was sliding straps still tight just displacing from one side to the other all I could think of was slide a 2" temp strap though the little gap and hook to the other side(not an easy task hook was super tight fitting under it) put a bit of pressure on it as more would break the bottom layer but it held it from sliding any more. other suggestions? Would not have moved had it had more angle to it but it was almost straight up and down. its all about angles I know but can't really control how tall or wide the products are

    I think clucks coming from both sides may help on this as the side with the winch has more pressure to it either down and squeeze
     
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