Securing a a car w/ Chains on a Flatbed

Got a phone number an I will call you and walk you through it. It depends on the vehicles..

 

I always use tire straps. I prefer to strap through the wheels if possible and use rubber pads to protect the straps from the sharp edges. I NEVER strap to the frame. Pulling down on the suspension ends up causing the straps to loosen up over bumpy roads. Just my 2 cents!

 

There are car dealers who will throw you off of the lot if they see a strap through the wheels. Straps can come a little loose, or while cinching the strap tight can leave marks in the finish. Always go around or preferably over the tire.

Very few cars today have factory slots in a traditional frame for the old RTJ frame hooks to work. Well technically, some models may have some work arounds. But more often than not, better to leave that alone if you are not familiar. Trucks are still body on frame designs that rtj's will work. But you do have to watch those with air suspensions. Have heard some rare one off horror stories there too.

 

If the OP is putting them on a flatbed, of course I am assuming here, but it sounds like they are probably insurance cars. There are waaaaay to many models out there to say how to tie each down if you're not using wheel straps. I'd imagine the best for a flatbed would be the lasso type straps.

 

There are two lines if thinking. If you tie the car down with ratchets attached to whatever dram you can fine, the car will not move around because the shocks and springs are collapsed. If you just the the wheels it can still move, but if your truck rides smooth it can be OK. I hauled some lowered show cars and all I could get was a basket type webbing around the tires, but it worked fine. With stuff being unibody its not easy these days to the them. If you see a car hauler get some advice.

 

Put the windows down, and one chain and binder thru. Done.
/sarc.

I use J hooks on everything.
If I have the rear axle, and the A-arms; it ain't moving. I always use a safety chain/hook also.
I have 2 long and 2 short hooks for the different reaches required.
Some have A-arms; (ok to hook) - and/or trailing link rods in rear suspension.
These rods are not a securement point, as it is a threaded rod and could break at the cut thread.
You gotta get down and look under each one, as they're all different.
Front usually has 2 T-hook slots, rear may have a single welded in loop.
The loops can tear out; ask me how I know.
If you are flat-bedding. to use J-Hooks you would also need four load binders,
in between securement hook on rail, to tighten all 4 points.
The "40ft Load Trail" I'm not familiar with, nor am I familiar with how these trailers tighten their securement.
I am looking at the basket style straps over the wheels, with a built in ratchet, and a hook on end.
In my situation it would be redundant; I have a 2 hook bridle on winch cable, and 2 J-hooks on rear,
crossed in X pattern to keep side movement to a minimum.
I have moved Ferraris that are 500-750 Thousand U.S, and in that case - redundant is good.

 

The baskets work better with e track. Clamp a roller in front and run the ratchet strap thru it then hook it. Now you can cinch up the basket. High performance sports cars don't move much anyway. The X in the back is always a good idea.

 

I only use straps myself...

 

At our yard they wouldn't let you out like that. Has to be inline over the tire straps. They frown on lassoing tires