Service Intervals

Prefilters would be a good idea to save on air filters. The less rubbish that gets into the filters the better. Air restriction gauge would then allow you to service the filters on restriction.

The oil change intervals given out by engine manufacturers etc are for normal on road applications. For special applications, such as yours, you need to take samples at the interval you are currently using. If the oil is ok, you may be able to extend the change interval. If the oil is not ok, you will have to shorten the interval. For your application an hourmeter will be a necessity.

The engine oil sample you have already taken will give you a starting point for the engine. Get someone who really knows oils to look at the results.

 

I do not know them, but I would guess they bought their trucks from Bruce in Beaver Dam. That's where I got mine and he had atleast one more for sale that was identical.


H001906 is the part #. Page 122. It was about $450, but filters add up fast once a month. I'll post pics of mine when I can dig em up. Hauling corn 24/7 right now, gotta go to bed.
http://www.donaldson.com/en/engine/support/datalibrary/061238.pdf

 

I'd almost think that the old school oil-bath air cleaner that used to be the norm would be perfect for your situation. They were heavy... the air had to travel through a large bath of oil that would trap dust, dirt & debris.

Maybe one of the old timers (no offense intended to the older fellas... I respect my elders!) could give some input on that.

 

Heres the seperator, and the part that it replaced. I would look at the chart on Donaldsons site to determine the CFM your engine requires. This one flows up to 1,400. I have a filter restriction gauge in my truck, and when I am pulling a hill with the turbo spooled up the needle does move alittle.




Inside view.


Only problem that I have found is that large chaff will not eject out of the rubber valve on the bottom and will clog it up. I just pop the rubber off at the end of the day and dump it out. Surprising how much dust/chaff collects in there. I suppose I could just run without the rubber valve on also.

My original idea was to replace the whole filter assembly with a new style with a saftey filter. After speaking to Donaldson they do not make one with a small enogh diameter to fit under my hood.

 

The problem is not that the filters aren't filtering the air properly. It is that the massive amounts of dust and chaff plug the up so fast.

 

A dirty air filter cleans better until it gets to were you're losing power. Each time you remove filter you allow a small amount of dirt past seal. Ther are companies that clean filters and bring them to you, most also offer warranty against engine damage. You can buy several and just rotate when they clean them. They also inspect them after cleaning for holes and will tell you if they find any. I have saved about half what I would spend on new filters this way.

 

I know this is an old post, but any update on how the precleaner worked?

 

I run a TIM timber mulcher with a naturally aspirated 15 litre V8 Mercedes engine. We had costant problems every day with air filters blocking with bark dust. I installed a precleaner from a John Deere forage harvester(Donaldson I think),which sucks the heavy articles from the precleaner tthrough a venturi at the end of the exhaust system. We were amazed that after a week the air filter was still immaculate. Five years later,we still have the same air filter in situ,having only been blown out once.