Stripped wheel studs. Again.

Lol, I did, we were typing at the same time. I just took longer.

 

The only other thing I can think of is the orignal set was over torqued and you bought a cheap Made in China set that wasn't heat treated properly. Torque and poor materials or incorrect matching threads are the only things that will cause a strip.

Is this happening on one wheel or all?

 

Is that what you learned doing a Google search Condo or did this info come from your multiple years of heavy truck repair experience that we all know you don't have?

 

You all ways use antiseize on the old style inner and outer wheel studs and oil on the hub pilot studs.

 

I had a 93 utility trailer with that setup... I was stripping or breaking the outside one off. I came to find out that there is two different types of studs one for aluminum wheels and one for steel wheels... The ends that go into the wheel are different. One is flat and the other has a lip to it, I can't think which one goes to what wheel. After I changed to the proper ones I didn't have an issue....

 

Another thing is to not over tighten the nuts! To many people use to big of an impact to tighten the ball and seat style. Personally I use a 3/4" impact to tighten and have to use the 1" to take them off. If you're using a 1" to tighten, don't go crazy with it.

 

Ok if you was using the barrel nuts with the lip on a steel wheel you should have known it right away, the tire would have wobbled.

The ones with the lip are for aluminum rims. The stud length only matters if you don't have a long enough barrel nut.

 

My trailer tires never wobbled...the things always ran fine.... Anyways just a thought since nobody had mention it...

 

x2

You can always tell when the previous jack*** didn't use anti-seize. Removing the wheels requires a torch to get the outer nut off and try to keep it from pulling the inner one through the wheel.