Thought I would step up

Discussion in 'CB Radio Forum' started by dirtyrabbit, Mar 9, 2025.

  1. dirtyrabbit

    dirtyrabbit Medium Load Member

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    Jun 19, 2011
    KS
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    Picked up a Stryker the other day, and installed everything as per usual. The radio on the dash and was about to switch in a SWR meter and do the antennae steps but wanted to shout out as I live right off a big road. Keyed up and popped a fuse under the footwell. (2016 Peterbilt) After I checked the fuses and replaced that little fuse, still no power to the red/black hookups, put radio direct to my car battery and was good. Above the cover plate is a junction splice, but it's nothing I've seen before. Could use some advice on this odd connector or where to look next?
     
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  3. mike5511

    mike5511 Road Train Member

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    May 15, 2011
    NW Arkansas
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    Reversed polarity when you hooked it up and blew the protect diode. (that is what I'd check first.)
     
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  4. Ridgeline

    Ridgeline Road Train Member

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    Dec 18, 2011
    Michigan
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    He tested it at the battery, nope not the pd.
     
  5. Night Stalker10

    Night Stalker10 Road Train Member

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    You didn't say what Stryker radio you bought, or what size fuse you replaced. Here's what I found on amperage used by Stryker radios.

    SR-955HPC, SR-655HPC, and SR-447HPC2 all require a 14-amp power supply.
    • SR-497HPC needs a 25-amp power supply.
    • SR-94HPC should be powered by a 12-amp supply.
    • SR-25MC requires a minimum of 5 amps.

    You mentioned replacing a little fuse, I assume you meant the physical size? What amp fuse was it that blew? Sounds like you may need to turn the power way down in order to talk on the radio. Most guys that run a 60 to 70 watt radio, run the positive and negative cable to the battery itself. Of course you still will need to have a fuse close to the battery terminals for protection.
     
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