Thoughts on 3.08 diff ratio

What I want to know is how they get away with still using 134 when cars were forced into 1234.

I was at kw last week. They had a good deal on 134. But don't carry 1234. But then I looked online and see 134 is about 45% cheaper then last year. $450 to $288. There batteries are $30 cheaper this year.

 

Because that's a scam just like the whole EGR, SCR, DPF and def thing but rest assured all heavy duty on and off road equipment will be on the new freon at some point too.

 

The price of 1234 is definitely a scam.

134 wasn't that way when it replaced 12.

 

Many years ago the diesel engine expert at Schneider said on one of their driver updates (I forget what they called them, they came out on cassette every quarter, kind of a paleolithic podcast) that the most efficient RPM for any engine is the point where it makes peak torque because that's the point where air flows through the engine most efficiently. Of course nowadays they like to do shenanigans with the fuel mapping to flatten out the torque curve but I'd assume wherever the engine's 'natural' torque peak is at would be the fuel economy sweet spot.

 

As far as RPMs and hills the first truck I drove was a IH 9800 with a 12.7, 10 speed direct and I think 2.97 rears (may have been 3.08, it's been 20 years). That truck was an absolute beast as far as hill climbing (the only time I passed folks LOL) went but the first time I took it out west I overheated it because the cooling system couldn't keep up driving it the way I was trained to drive it. Dropping it a gear at the bottom of the hill to keep the revs up near 15-1600 made the truck much happier I'm assuming because the water pump was turning faster and the lower gear ratio meant the engine didn't have to work as hard. The other advantage was if it can't pull that gear you hopefully have one less shift before you get to the top.

 

This ^^^^^^ makes sense JMO but everything I was taught about a diesel motor is you don’t pull the guts out of em or lug them doesn’t matter if their a mechanical or a electronic a mechanical you lug it you’ll burn it down a electronic you pull them down in the 11 or 1200 rpm range and they like to rock the liners in the block and not to mention the heat they create because their being lugged and the carbon pack they’re building by doing thatI guess if you own the truck you can drive it how ever you wish
You you want to murder it painfully slow that’s their choice

 

Hard on rod bearings too!

 

Yes it is them cumaparts are scrap iron proof of that

 

Injection timing can be done with a “tune” through the ECM. I’ve never seen a truck engine that had variable valve timing that was adjusted electronically but since it’s been done centrifugally for so long, it probably wouldn’t take much to electronically adjust it. They can electronically adjust the turbo geometry so it wouldn’t be far fetched.

 

This right here is the exact reason why I would never have any interest is buying a used truck with a electronic motor
Just drive it into the drift IDGF good thinking cause your enjoying that extra fuel mileage that’s well worth bragging rights
I knew a guy that had that mentality when it got to the point that it was going to cost some money to fix it he just sold it to a salvage yard