Most would but some are like me and swap trailers all the time and company wants them on all the time plus don't have space on truck and no trailer boxes.
It's a pain and I hate it their trailers and straps so their rules!
Tips and Tricks of flatbedding
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by Flightline, Feb 23, 2014.
Page 35 of 109
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I use a piece of 1/2 PVC pipe four ft long(or longer if space provided) and a pipe "T" about four to five inches long cut a slit in the pipe that's for your bungee hooks and the T you cut a slit along the top of the T and it will attach to the pipe and use it for v boards. Light cheap and easy.
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I hear ya Savvy. Most of our flatbeds are used for oilfield loads only, and we leave the straps in the winches on those as well, since you never know who will pull it next.
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I just cut the end off of my cheater bar, the side designed to lock onto snaps, then cut a divet deep enough to hold the edge protectors. Works great.
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I use a 4' piece of 3/8 conduit with a slot cut in the end. It fits into the box at the end of my winch bar used for snap binders. I'm 5'7", so I need every bit of that 7' reach. It's a bit too sharp to use on insulation, but they've always got their own edge protector tools, so I don't worry about it.
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Awhile back i posted some straps i had made for me. This is what i use them for.
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you are smarter than you look !MJ1657 Thanks this.
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Other option is to lasso hook the chain. Choke the chain against itself, pass through the loop through the hole, hook binder to loop, hook other end of chain to trailer, tighten.
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I lasso the hook workalso if the holes are small enough or you could take the hooks off the chains but a clevis will give you the tie down point without the extra work.
tsavory Thanks this.
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