Tips and Tricks of flatbedding

Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by Flightline, Feb 23, 2014.

  1. johndeere4020

    johndeere4020 Road Train Member

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    Isn’t @Flightline trying to keep his back sleeper door exposed?
     
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  3. spyder7723

    spyder7723 Road Train Member

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    Yes. He used to have a drom box there with a side door. It was fantastic.

    @Flightline did you get another truck or did you fix the pete? Why not build another drom box? That was really really slick. Was there a negative with it that I'm not aware of?
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2018
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  4. Flightline

    Flightline Road Train Member

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    Same truck. Drom box gone. Built it myself with steel frame which made it little heavy.
    Looking to do something little simplier this time.
     
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  5. Slowpoke KW

    Slowpoke KW Road Train Member

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    These folks should be able to build you whatever want.

    Homepage - Brunner Fabrication
     
  6. Flightline

    Flightline Road Train Member

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    Yes Brunner Fab does a nice job, but little pricey for me. Looking to put together another box my self and looking for ideas.
     
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  7. Hotshot2trucker

    Hotshot2trucker Bobtail Member

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  8. bocker

    bocker Light Load Member

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    Hope someone has an answer for this. I constantly damage 4 inch straps, mainly using kenodyne standard strapping. I just bought rino straps one load later when I get straps and see damage. I was in habit of using cheater bar and read I should not so this was done with standard bar length. My rachet channels have a bit of play so always have to tighten a little more than I want then when I release bar there set, that Is usually only a concern with things like foam panels and such, am I still just tightnitig too much,
     
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  9. Lepton1

    Lepton1 Road Train Member

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    Good questions.

    First, regarding the cheater bar, I have never used one. I do frequently put my body weight on the standard bar to get tight on pipe loads or bottom tools (oil drilling motors and collars...think long pipe, but up to 9000 lbs apiece).

    There are loads where you can cause damage to the freight if you tighten too much. Foam insulation is one. Large air conditioning units are another (watched a guy jump on his bar to tighten a strap on one of those and bent the metal so bad they had to take that $150K unit off his deck for repairs...not good, especially with all the signs in the yard and in the shipping office warning about that).

    Regarding strap damage, are you using edge protectors when necessary? Are you padding over sharp points when edge protectors won't work? Sometimes you have to take more time preparing to strap than actually strapping. I use cut lengths of old straps for most of the wierd sharp areas. It would be helpful to see pictures of the damage to your straps.

    Kinodyne is my favorite brand of strap. I specced and sold webbing by the container load for years. Kinodyne has their act together regarding specifications and quality control. They handle better than any other brand in my experience, but I haven't tried Rino yet.
     
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  10. ChaoSS

    ChaoSS Road Train Member

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    Where are you seeing damage? Loose straps that flap in the wind take damage to the edges where they flap, especially if they vibrate. Of course you should be using edge protection where needed on sharp or rough surfaces.

    Are you putting enough strap into your winches? I get preloaded trailers where they fed the strap through all the way before tightening, on loads with very little give to them. (Think ewp) They end up with sometimes less than one full wrap and that puts stress on the strap where it wraps around the edge of the winch. You should have 2 to 3 wraps around the winch.
     
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  11. cke

    cke Road Train Member

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    Are you putting a twist in the straps to keep them from vibrating??
     
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