I have the Spice 1710 series u-joints (the style with the bearing cap). This is the second time I've run into this issue where two of the four bearing will not purge grease. last time (and per Spicer manual) I had to press one bearing cap out slightly (about 1/16 or so) then grease would flow out of all the bearings.
According the Spicer service manual, this is to be expected. But it's a huge pain the but to get those bearing caps loosened up. Hard to access due to other components located under the joint area.
For now I'm going to press the bearing cap out slightly and grease. This adds an hour or two to an otherwise simple grease job.![]()
So, would you recommend replacing this u-joint or just keep dealing with it as I am doing now?
If I replace the joint, will I just have the same problem with the new one?
U-Joint wont purge grease - should I replace it or keep dealing with it?
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by CountryBumkin, Nov 3, 2021.
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In the past I've had the same issue, I would get the correct size hose clamp and a piece of rubber or plastic bag. Place around where the grease first escapes, then put on hose clamp and lightly tighten and lay the grease to it. Worked well for me, I like to see grease at all 4
Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
I agree it is nice to see grease purge all 4. The SPL series seem worse to purge to me and always purge fully on 2 only. Most cases you can see the grease slight on the 2 that didnt flow thru. Never seen one fail that was lubed regularly. I hit them good and let them roll and never an issue. Loosening the caps seems excessive, and replacing because they didnt purge is definitely excessive as the new ones will repeat just the same.
Dino soar, God prefers Diesels, Rideandrepair and 2 others Thank this. -
God prefers Diesels, Rideandrepair and Goodysnap Thank this.
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I've never worried about grease purging from every cap. Heck I don't even hit both zerks, just the first one I see. As long as you get grease in the u joint it will work its way to the caps when its spinning 9000mph and gets warm. Speaking of warm I think it best to grease when it's warm, as in just came off the road
Dino soar and Rideandrepair Thank this. -
I never worried about it either. I just used a good quality grease and greased often. Millions of miles and no problems. Just get the truck rolling like you know what your doing.
Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
That’s why I use a manual grease gun, with the handle. As soon as I hear/see the grease stretching the rubber seals, I stop. I don’t like to see grease on the undercarriage splattered where every ujoint is.
Dino soar, homeskillet and Rideandrepair Thank this. -
Anytime they’re loosened, they suggest replacing straps and bolts. I doubt it’s really necessary, but maybe suggested for a reason. I’ve got one now that I reused them on about 100k mikes ago. Maybe a little medium Locktite? I’ve replaced quite a few u joints, without using a torque wrench. Till I somehow ended up with a broken bolt on the yoke, after a few thousand miles. Must have over torqued it, or straps had slop. I don’t know. Now it’s torque wrench only, after having to have a new yoke welded on. Reminds me, I need to replace the big nut on tailshaft, and install my new straps and bolts, I’ve been saving till I get the new bolt put on.
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So, would you recommend replacing this u-joint or just keep dealing with it as I am doing now?
If I replace the joint, will I just have the same problem with the new one?[/QUOTE]
I wouldnt worry about it. I cant recall the last time I saw a ujoint fail that had regular servicing.Dino soar and Rideandrepair Thank this. -
The last time I pushed out one cap for greasing I had to use a u-joint bearing removal press with my 1/2" impact gun, and even then it was tough going. Since this "my" vehicle I think I push out the cap one more time and thoroughly grease - but not waste my money buying a new joint (and end up with the same problem).
Thanks for confirming that - and the other suggestions.Rideandrepair Thanks this.
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