Upgraded to a K100E

Discussion in 'Australian Truckers Forum' started by jaffles, May 20, 2026.

  1. Oldman83

    Oldman83 Road Train Member

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    Yes. A shock is most effective when vertical. The more you lay it down the less effective it becomes.
     
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  3. Oldman83

    Oldman83 Road Train Member

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    Your mention of the lower coolant part jiggled my memory. IMG_8066.jpeg
    My lower coolant pipe looked like this when I bought my 359.
    First thing I did was jerk the 3.5” blocks out from between the axle and spring pack. IMG_8067.jpeg I cut the lower pipe apart, and re-welded it to look like this. Same amount of pipe. Didn’t add or subtract any, just rearranged it. IMG_7075.jpeg When I did my air ride, I needed more clearance yet, so I cut it apart and re-welded it again.
    Still the same amount of pipe, didn’t add or subtract any, just rearranged it. :D
     
  4. jaffles

    jaffles Medium Load Member

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    Sorry been researching turbos. But yep that's exactly what's going on. Need to amend the heater piping though I was going to go see a pipe bender and see what possible. Think I'll have to shorten the drag link, so was going to store all my welding up and get it all done at once. If its up to me I'll have holes every
    where.

    So any packings under the spring mounts or axel?
     
  5. Big Road Skateboard

    Big Road Skateboard Road Train Member

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    I'd go up in flames with my britches cut like that.

    Let me rephrase... I often go up in flames with my britches cut like that.
     
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  6. Oldman83

    Oldman83 Road Train Member

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    On my truck I had nothing between the spring and axle pad. Only thing you might need is a caster wedge. I had 2.5° with no wedge. 2.5°-3.5° is great.
     
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  7. Oldman83

    Oldman83 Road Train Member

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    I typically wear my old clothes when I’m playing mechanic.



    Wait, I almost always wear old clothes.
     
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  8. jaffles

    jaffles Medium Load Member

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    yes I have an existing one, I'll drop it in but fully expect something will be amended when getting an alignment. Hey thanks for all the help.
     
  9. jaffles

    jaffles Medium Load Member

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    haha forget the britches, I hoping my rebuild doesn't go up in flames. I read elsewhere from a few years a go you had a K31 on a 12.7 and was happy. happy?

    I'm planning on upgrading the boost a little for the dirty ol K. Its currently 430HP and I wish to map it to 470. I believe that can only be done via more fuel or more boost. Tell me am I right in understanding the waste-gated k31 is great for better low down boost on a standard engine, but can add better boost through the whole range. It can run out of punch on highways for hi speed climbs but that about its only weakness? My highway is short and flat, but most of my run is 50 mile undulating. How did you find it. I'm at 42.5T

    I understand the famed 171702 (S400) is too big for a standard 12.7 ddec II motor, requiring injector and cam upgrades to work properly. That's how I read it.
     
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  10. Oldman83

    Oldman83 Road Train Member

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    In my limited experience, a tuned 12.7 works really well with a 171702 if you swap the original 1.32 turbine housing for a 1.15 turbine housing. I prefer a 171702 with a 1.15 over a K31.
    You don’t necessarily need cam and injectors to run a 171702, just tuning and a housing swap.
     
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  11. jaffles

    jaffles Medium Load Member

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    Thanks, its a can of worms....which you just added too haha. It seem Ai is not so keen on your limited experience for my application. But I sure find it interesting. It thinks "The stock fuel volume from factory injectors doesn't provide enough energy at 1,200 to 1,400 RPM to easily overcome the rotational weight (inertia) of a 171702 75/96mm wheels. Even with a tighter 1.15 housing forcing the air faster, the engine simply lacks the low-end fueling to drive it. Your requirements for undulating roads would remain it is lazy and laggy"

    Now for the long of it.
    Want to keep my 12.7 as standard, simple, and strong as possible for the next decade or 1 million km. This is the new work truck but because I'm not a super trucker, I'm not so good on the stick and my driver also isn't interested. Plus any future staff may also not be that keen on 18 gears either . So to date I have had a truck 22.5T gvm with an Allison and 42.5T gvm 12 spd automated manual. Which is driven like a manual because the ZF auto is average as an auto. Both these trucks have managed 40-50 kmh (25-30 mph) at 8-16% decline, 80-90 kmh (50-55 mph) undulating, and 100kmh (60 mph) flattish highway. The Allision however would have been more flexible with a retarder.

    The concept for dirty ol K was to have Allison 2 pedal proper auto, however the mechanic took me on the possibility of automating the 18 spd RR it came with or swapping something in. I have been quoted 66K to drop an Alison in so the idea was much cheaper. This Eaton Auto-shift however boiled down to my DDEC II being converted to a IV, which is not easy. Or dropping a second gen Auto-shift (AS2) in so it can natively talk with my DDEC II. To drop a AS3 in required DDEC IV and a whole heap more so just too hard. An AS2 is Yuk...and just more yuk as its yukier then the ZF. So back to the Allison with a retarder. Yes I could learn to drive a manual, but na.

    Most my work is 80-90kmh (50-55 mile) undulating, and I was leaning toward K31 172731 (71mm, 1.28 A/R) as an upgrade form the standard Garret (71mm,1.18A/R). It K31 read as a wastegated turbo so it spooled low and mid better than standard or the popular 171702 (75mm,1.32 A/R) none gated. However the K31 can run out of puff at 100kmh (60 mile). The 171702 was more for injector modified 12.7s preferably with exhaust manifold as you have suggested oldman. However I have discovered the 171701 (71mm /1.32 A/R) non wastegate jobby, and according to AI because it hogs and summarizes, the 171701 for a standard motor paired with an Alison for 80-90kmh undulations is the sweet spot. The Alison because it is torque converted the turbo is spooling well before anything moves and with no slowing for gear changes it just keeps bunching on. The 1.32A/R gives it legs at 100, and plenty of flow to keep egr temps down. So I'll attack it from few different angles and no doubt will have a different answer soon enough. But no wastegate mechanicals appeals.
     
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