Water in rear

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Dino soar, Aug 21, 2018.

  1. Dino soar

    Dino soar Road Train Member

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    I'm working to get my truck ready for the road. I purchased it about 4-5 years ago and it has been sitting..

    I am working on the rears putting in new seals breaks cams the whole thing. This morning when I drained the back rear, there must have been at least two quarts of water that came out. The front rear was completely all oil.

    There is no metal on the drain plug, the axle splines look good and when I pulled the axles out and the hubs out there was oil. The bearings look okay the races look okay the pinion is tight I don't see anything else wrong except there was water at the bottom of the oil. I did notice there was just a very very small amount of surface rust inside the axle tube and just a little bit on the axle shaft but not at the splines or anywhere near there.

    So my question is

    1) could that cause me any problem. from this point forth?

    2) how did the water get in there? Through the vent?

    3) instead of putting the expensive synthetic oil in this rear, should I just put regular gear oil in and run it for a while and then change it and maybe do that a few times to flush it and then put the synthetic in?

    4) should the vents themselves be completely changed on both rears or can they be cleaned out?
     

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  3. Goodysnap

    Goodysnap Road Train Member

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    1. It could. I would say from the amount that it is most definitely rain water. You need to find how it got in there. If that much got in there once, it can get in there again. Only thing is in small amounts, normal driving with a load will heat up the diff enough to evaporate small amounts of water and condensation so that it's not an issue.

    2. Once you get your new seals and axles in, put all the plugs in it and apply small amount of shop air to the housing . Listen for audible leaks and or spray it down with dawn and water to find your leak point.

    3. Conventional oil will suffice. Synthetic offers better wear protection and longer service life. Running conventional for a short while to flush and then refill with synthetic later is a good idea. That way you can also recheck for water and not ruin expensive fluid.

    4. Cleaning the vents is fine. Unless they are broken or really rusted. Dont rule out the vent as a possibly entry point as they usually thread in the top of the housing.

    Let us know what you find.
     
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  4. Oldironfan

    Oldironfan Road Train Member

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    What style axle vents do you have? As far as I have seen there are the conventional tube one way valve, and modern button type? I had button type on my Columbia and 2 times in high altitude driving in wyoming, I had pressure build up and blow past my seals. Those buttons seem to stick if you don't turn them by hand often.
     
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  5. Dino soar

    Dino soar Road Train Member

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    That's excellent advice.

    I will thread a fitting into the vent and regulate maybe 10- 15 lbs and see what is happening.

    I will post what I find.
     
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  6. Dino soar

    Dino soar Road Train Member

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    It looks to me like it would be a button type but I guess I have to take it off to make sure. I'm not sure what the difference in the types are.

    It is a 95 Freightliner with Rockwell Rears.

    That's good to know about the button type vents to prevent blowing the seals out.

    It makes sense that they would get stuck.
     
  7. Oldironfan

    Oldironfan Road Train Member

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    I would think it would be easy to convert to the tube style with check valve only letting pressure out, but those still need checks often. The buttons just screw in.
     
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  8. Dino soar

    Dino soar Road Train Member

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    After @Goodysnap recommended that I check where that water is leaking in, I remembered that I saw a rusty part on the front of the rear.

    I can still put air in it to check it, but before I put the seals in and the hubs on, I have to put the cams in. All of my parts are still new in the box if I have to return them. I have another set of rears but I don't know if they take the same cams and seals. I'm trying to avoid buying them twice if I can help it.

    So my question is, looking at the picture does that look like water could be coming in there? If so, what kind of damage am I looking at or what kind of work would I have to do to fix that? There have to be bearings and gears that that's running down past.

    20180821_194646.jpg
     
  9. Goodysnap

    Goodysnap Road Train Member

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    I dont see anything in the photo to cause concern. Maybe the thing to do here is put it all together and replace the vent. If it really has leaked water inside there will be oil leakage out when operating if it's coming through the housing. If nothing is wet with oil the only other spot is the vent. The big question is that it has been setting for some time without operation. The amount that's in there theres no way it's just condensation. This is why I suggested the air test to check for leaks in the housing. Do you have any way to cap the axle tubes without reassembling? Maybe expandable plugs? So you can complete the checks.

    You may have to run it and keep an eye on it.
     
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  10. Dino soar

    Dino soar Road Train Member

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    I have to think about if there's a way that I can pressurize it without assembling it. Maybe a plumbing supply would have expandable plugs. I know they use them to test water lines.

    Thanks for the advice. I'll post again after I test it.
     
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  11. dibstr

    dibstr Road Train Member

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    I’m sure you have checked the case for cracks, but spend a little extra time checking the seam where the upper and lower halves join on both sides and front and rear. A crack there (or above it) let’s water in but is high enough where the oil won’t leak out (unless maybe a couple gallons of water enter).
     
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