wheel clocking

Good chance the studs are stretched. If the hub doesn’t show signs of the wheel eating into it,I’d try new studs.
Feel the hub as well as visual.

 

Those studs and nuts are rusty as ####. Remove wheels and inspect both wheels , hub and studs and nuts for wear.

The nut washer and threads need to be cleaned or replaced and lightly lubed with oil, then torqued.

Torqued when dry and rusty they are guaranteed undertorqued and wont have enough clamp load.

Wheel flanges must also be smooth and free of debris.

 

Hope those photos were from before they removed and cleaned the mounting surfaces. It definitely does not look like that nut has been off in quite a while.

 

Always torque fastener, do not let the grease monkey do anything but use the impact to lightly run the fastener up to the wheel. Then if fastener does not turn before torque wrench yields or clicks fastener over torqued. Looks like studs have been stretched and are no longer elastic to provide clamping force. Probably even have stress cracks in the studs. You can’t see them with the naked eye. Change studs and nuts. Wheels are toast as well. Be sure nuts and studs are clean and lubricated.

 

The aluminum wheels will very rarely stay centered on the studs with hub pilot wheels. Steel will do a better job but still commonly move like that. The stud holes are bigger than the studs and the wheels will shift to one side of the hole like that with the enertia of the braking direction. The main reason why the old stud pilot system have left handed threads on the left side.

Re-torques are recomemded on the hub pilot studs because of this. They will move and settle in after 250-500 miles. If the torque is good and the plastic indicators do not rotate they are good.

If you want more piece of mind.
1)Remove the assembly.
2) buff the studs, mounting flanges and wheel face and lip that mates with the hub.
3) replace all the nuts new and torque to 500 ftlbs.
4) check torque after they set within 250-500 miles.

In the future use a torque wrench only and not a ugga dugga gorilla gun. Lol!

 

Another thing you can use that I have on all wheel positions is centering sleeves,
Made by tru balance. 3 per wheel position. Keeps wheels and drums centered on studs and concentric in case hub pads on hub piloted wheels are machined a little off or worn.

 

The only problem with most of the centering sleeve kits is they only center the wheel at bolt up but then have to be removed to get the last couple nuts on. The wheel can still rotate afterwards making no difference. Some plastic/nylon one’s are made to remain and they work well but you can only use them so many times.

If you can get a hold of these they are the best to use for aluminum wheels. The built in sleeve keeps the wheel from rotating on the stud. It fills the void and is the same concept as the special Alcoa style thimbles used on the old stud pilot system.

 

my company uses a ITH nut runner like this.