Where is everyone #5

You said you have to take your stuff to the shop and that’s fine. But anytime you take something apart there is the risk of a bad repair. Are they going to stand behind it when your 3k miles away?

EZ Rider wrenches on his own trucks but put his in the shop in Canada on a load. He was having cam follower issues. It was almost 6 weeks before the other 2 shops got it back together and running. Think it was $12k and Untold lost revenue. Because he wanted the piece of mind of the Mack warranty. Turns out he had to fight every step of the way with them. The truck never even finished the trip before it had to all be done again.

Bear in mind what ever comes off the cam and followers will most likely run harmlessly down the return galley into the pan. Anything to oil the engine has to come out of the pan and be filtered before it can do any damage. So anything that flakes off SHOULD be harmless.


I don’t know what truck or operation you run so do what you want to do. There are a 100 other things that could take that motor (or truck for that mater) out before that cam.

They are right to advise you to fix it OR not touch it and run it.

I’m glad I’m not in your position for sure. Darned if you do and darned if you don’t?

My guess is that there are no NEW cams available for that motor? So that most likely means a regrind? That means that it’s a cam like you have that is welded up and cut back down to make it smooth.

There is also a lot of talk going around of mismatched cams in 12.7 that are causing major drivability issues.i would be very concerned where the replacement part comes from. Even Detroit themselves?

if you have them just button it back up that gives you some time to research the repair. Without being under the gun. If you decide to replace you can order the parts ahead of time and have them waiting and the bay in the shop clear.

 

Depends, is the cross shaft in clutch housing in trans over center or under center? Mostly some Volvo's and Mack's can be under center and flats down. Most everything else flats up. Just make sure you have the arm on trans. Pulled back. Or forward depending on model
When you get trans close make sure as sheet that arm passes it. Dont wanna find out to late that the arm is folded the wrong way. The release bearing will move freely once torqued and wooden blocks removed. You get close and you can use that clutch arm to help pull it in. Dont hammer trans into the clutch hard and fast. It can bump the plates and you have to start over. Nice easy, if it dont go. Take a break and come back. Dont get frustrated and start forcing stuff. It will only get worse.

 

I've always put the clutch housing on the floor jack and flipped it up in the hole.... Put the edge of the housing on the jack and stick in a couple bolts....but....

 

Thats exactly what i wanted to do, use floor jack, but my partner hemmed and hawed. I like him and was in his domain so just said F it, whatever. While he watched me struggle to do it his way. He got called off to a truck outside and i was then free to do my own thing n get it on there. I couldnt lift it onto alignment pins by hand without crushing a finger.

I cant remember which way the fork went but ill figure it out tmrw. Ive done this a time or two. been long enough to forget the details though.

 

@FoolsErrand

If it's a new clutch and you surfaced the flywheel. Drive it as normal. No known breaking. Dont slip it and get it hot all I can say. More than likely unless it's a low HP engine its ceramic and good to go.

 

Been thinking about this little gem.

TD 9 International Bulldozer

 

Thats about a 49 or so. Old old

 

Tier 0 emissions compliant

 

Compaired to shoveling coal in it, that's a step up. Lol

 

Ha.

Does this model have an oilpan or was it a total loss lubrication system?