Where is everyone #5

@jamespmack are most fld relays in the same spots? Seem to have lost brake lights but hear the switch behind the column but can't read what's on the relays. This also assumes the breaker is fine.

High idle and cruise turn off with the pedal just no lights on truck or trailer

 

Only like 6 relays in truck. Bottom left of circuit panel. Everything else on thematic resetable breakers.

You probably need one or multiple psi switches in air manifold behind column. With no scanner, I'd replace all and make sure to get the correct. And don't mix them up. If your not a smoker, you will be after changing them.

I've also seen the breakers after 20 years break the soldier on the pin in side the thematic breaker. Acts like a overloaded circuit and the vibration will trip them. You will not find this unless you physically disassemble it. I spent at least 3 days finding one.

Diagram should be on your panel door, or Google it.

Brake light switch has a red strip. Complete sob. But can be done without dropping column if your patient.

 

I did poke around behind there and definitely doesn't look like a good time.

I do have the breaker cover which shows which ones stop lamp. I should have continuity across the studs or voltage on the side not connected to the copper strip correct? 6th up from the bottom on the left side. No diagram on the back of the panel unfortunately



I wasn't sure if it was just the breaker or if it had a relay as well.

 

Yes, both pins. Copper to black should have equal voltage.

I honestly don't remember if brakes have a relay. But you do have truck circuit and trailer circuit.

The copper buss is a 12v feed. That's a row of breakers on each side.

Tractor brakes will be activated thru turnsignal circuit and some are thru turnsignal stock. Trailer will be direct to 7 way.

If you lost both, my guess will be psi switch.

Had to type, and explain for me. I'm a hands on, and I'm been hands on a 5yo to sleep to night. Doing my best.

 

No worries. I appreciate the help. Not in a position to work on it rn. Just getting pointed in the right direction.

Lost both but signals on both work. Which as you said points to pressure switch. This leads me to believe since cruise cancels with the pedal they are on separate switches.

 

That is you 7 way interface. Check for signal there if your not sure were you are loosing it. This is not a cut and dry diagnosis.

Also the weather pack connector about the midway in frame harness is were I find most Fup with there meat beaters.

Mines behind air dryer, battery box, bunk crossmember, inside C channel. I found numerous jumped and circuits moved. Drove it for years, till I had one problem. Took some time to fix other wire benders scab jobs.

 

Better pic of the interface.



Aside from the single green jumper there I don't see much hacked up in there.

 

Idk why they did the jumper, unless that breaker is bad. Might wanna look at that one.

 

I'll check that one and the one labeled stop lamp. I should see 12v at one of the 2 wires at the pressure switch if it checks out at the breaker

 

Well my trouble was I found the weather pack in frame all cobbled with jumped wires. I put it back to oem with correct connectors. Then found they moved all the wires on that distribution block to make it all work correctly. So I'm just telling a story on my part. The real failure was the breaker, but found all of this in the process.

This sheet is why I have cut the tips off of coworkers test lights.