Where is everyone #5

chasing more coolant leaks... had to put the pressure tester back on it. luckily i brought it with me.. turns out it leaking from the hose on radiator neck.. evaporating off im guessing because no leak when engine running, but pours right out when pressure tested. tightened the clamp and stopped the leak but think it still leaking when under load.. because still using alot of coolant... like playing whack a mole.. except theres no high score only more problems... i guess i will go find a peterbilt tomorrow after i deliver and get parts and fix the #### in their parking lot. i surely hope it is not the plastic neck that is cracked. i remember the cascadias being notorious for breaking on the neck and have to replace the entire frickin radiator... also a/c went out today.. seems like it has freon in it. but was fluctuating all day.. cold then hot. little cold. then just stopped working all together...bought a can and tried to add some but i think the can i bought is not working correctly.. its one of those with the quick connect already on it but it will not fill any into the system.. god dam truck is going to be the death of me

 

Guess you can never park next to me at night. There's some unwritten rule that to park next to me, you have to have a substantial leak in the signal line so that the air dryer spits off every 30 seconds. I mean, since you JUST fixed the line, I guess you could high idle with the a/c on, but don't leave the fan on, I'll need to hear the belts chirp every 44 seconds. If the fan hub bearing is getting ready to come apart also would be great - I wanna go from quiet to an exploding sound and roar and back to quiet, on repeat, every 44 seconds.

 

Mine broke at the little nipple for the short line to the expansion tank. The big inlet/outlet connections should have a metal sleeve inside to keep the plastic from crushing/cracking.

 

i have saw that one too. i had that nipple break a couple years ago after i hit a monster pothole.. well atleast if there is any positive news , it doesnt seem to be leaking there... i hope a new rad hose and clamps fixes it. i think it should. the other leak on the thermostat sealed up and then this one popped up using about half the amount of coolant it was before i replaced the thermostat leak.. shoulda just replaced both of them when i was at the house and had the coolant drained... but i am not that smart apparently

 

Me and every other driver who parks next to you to sleep, thank you lol.

 

He wants YOUR business.

Your AC might be freezing up. Next time it goes from cold to hot, turn off the AC and just run the fan. If after a couple minutes of heat, it goes cold, it’s your AC freezing up and thawing out.

BTW, you have a flat top. There should be a second blower under the bunk. Should blow plenty cold from the sleeper to keep you cool. The front freezing won’t have any effect on the rear blower.

 

mine went yesterday

 

that is what i was thinking as well.. i was messing with it all day thinking it was freezing up. but i couldnt get the compresser to kick in for the last 4 hours today. and it wont kick on anymore.. i think it either low on freon or compressor stopped working all together.. or maybe bad clutch.. i just dont really know how to diagnose this stuff on the road.. on my first load with this truck i added some freon because a/c was not working and it kicked right on. and has worked fine since then until today...i tried to run the bunk a/c and it just blows pure hot air like its on full heat mode, but the dial is turned to cold.. blows hotter than the outside air

 

son of a b.. did u lose all ur coolant or did u catch it in time

 

Easy stuff first.
Heater valves turned off. Two sets of water hoses. One goes to the firewall blower, the other to the bunk. That should stop it from blowing hotter than it is outside.

If the clutch isn’t engaging,

1. Fuse
2. Tester. Check and see if you are getting power to the compressor clutch.