Where is everyone #5

You might need to consider the clearance between the curved top part of the fairings, taking into account the vertical movement of the air ride sleeper.

Nice cabinet by the way. What brand is that?

 

Wasn’t me but I get saluted regularly

So @Oxbow is correct on the overlap.

I only use 4 (the overdrive in the aux) when empty on and on flat ground - so not very often.

When I am loaded I start in the under drive or 2 (the extra deep reduction in number 1 is only for real emergencies in getting started on a steep hill or soft ground). I run the through the bottom side of the main without splitting. then I go to the top side of the box and split 5 lo/hi and 6 low then I go to 3 in the aux box and split the rest.

18 with the box in underdrive (#2) is about the same 16 in #3 but pulls better on a hill.

My aux is about as follows
Deep under 2:47:1
Under 1.27:1
Drive 1:1
Overdrive 1:0.87

Everybody, this includes the manufacturers engineers, I talked with said that the torque is way too much to run as heavy as I do in the overdrive and would lead to failure.

It sounds complicated but it isn’t. When I am running low speeds or on a long pull I run mostly in #2 and when I am at speed going down the road I am in #3.

I rarely split the bottom side of my 18 unless I am pulling a stupid steep grade and need the half gear to Benin the proper RPM range

 

Brunner.

 

Insure that there is enough room to change the cab shock without moving the rack
Don't ask how I know

 

Thank god I am back in AZ til morning

 

You have it basicly right with some differences in how we were taught.
I learned on a coe ftlnr with a 250 Cummins and a 4X4 Spicer and was taught 1-1 1-2 1-3 1-4 2-2 2-3 2-4 3-2 3-3 3-4 4-2 4-3 when loaded and skip 2 in the aux and can use 4aux when empty
I took this with me to my first 5X4 and even to one 6X4 although that was much later and the power to weight ratio had changed a bit
The last 5X4 was powered by a hot Cummins BC 350 with up to 50 wheels on the ground in 1983.
The 6X4 was powered by a 600hp Cummins KT turbo/ air to air aftercooled in a petercar and pulled a tandem reefer through the Rockies in Canada (I just ran spare for a buddy for his holidays and mine ) in 1986/7.
That truck was wild, when a mutual friend got in and asked about the shift pattern he as told to " make one up".

 

Looks are deceiving - it's still 8-10" up off the frame. Clearance up there shouldn't be any issue. And, as mentioned by Stwik, Brunner.

I thought about that, and about putting the shock bolts in from the front so that I didn't need the extra 6-8" of clearance, but it'll only be 4 bolts to remove from frame, which, IMO would be a good idea to remove when I change cab shocks to keep an eye out for hidden corrosion. When I cut off the exhaust mount, the frame was a lot worse than first look. Of course it would make a 30 minute job take a couple hours.

 

Not to mention a separate trailer plate for BC

 

Most of what I know comes from watching guys shift then in YouTube videos. No explanations, just deduction. Thanks for fixing my mistakes. I good to give one a shot some day.

 

That’s because you north of the border folk are bloody crazy!!

I remember when I took my vacation to Boston for Christmas a few years back. No snow or anything. But it was 10/15 degrees with a wind... high school kids playing football in shorts and a t shirt.

You crazy mfers...

Yeah yeah yeah I know it’s physical activity and body heat will warm them up. But you won’t catch me doing that!