Where is everyone #5

Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by DDlighttruck, Aug 27, 2017.

  1. HillbillyDeluxeTruck

    HillbillyDeluxeTruck Road Train Member

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    San Antone
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    Just got home a little while ago. Took my hat off and within 2min saw this runnin around, lol.


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  3. OLDSKOOLERnWV

    OLDSKOOLERnWV Captain Redbeard

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    West Virginia
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    674BB0D9-7E9F-4F02-8742-5877E6E6F807.jpeg


    Wife had breakfast ready soon as I pulled in earlier, Yea I know, I know...... she really is good woman though @stwik :rolleyes::D
     
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  4. OLDSKOOLERnWV

    OLDSKOOLERnWV Captain Redbeard

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    West Virginia
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    The reason we do what we do :D Gotta enjoy family much as we can.
     
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  5. HillbillyDeluxeTruck

    HillbillyDeluxeTruck Road Train Member

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    San Antone
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    Stwiks hate of butter is unnatural.

    Bet he likes salsa from nyc.
     
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  6. Rugerfan

    Rugerfan Road Train Member

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    Redding,CA
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    Summer is in full effect in the Northwest. Got up to the mid 90’s this week. Think I lost about 15 lbs in my chemical suit.
     
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  7. MagnumaMoose

    MagnumaMoose Lost or Missing

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    A cold solder joint forms because enough heat wasn't applied when it was melted when it was joined. The best method ( really the only way ) to solder is to get in and out as quickly as possible. Get the iron good and hot BEFORE you touch it to the connection. Apply the solder at the same time as you apply the iron. As soon as it melts it should flow evenly over and around the connection ( as long as you correctly prepared it completely around the area you want to be connected. Do that by cleaning the area. Isopropyl alcohol does a good job cleaning before and after the joint is made. If it looks corroded before you start, you can lightly sand it. Always use the most gentle method possible though. Use a pencil eraser to clean mild corrosion. If you still need to clean it more, use a very fine grit sandpaper. You don't want to remove any of the metal, only the dirt and corrosion. Clean all around the back side too. It's easy to forget about the part you can't see.

    If it's prepared ahead of time ( add a drop of liquid flux if you have some. It keeps the contaminants " boiling out " of the solder. ) once it reaches the melting point it will flow lightning quick around the joint and will harden just as quick once you remove the heat. Clean the flux off to help ward off future corrosion. Flux chemically breaks down over time and eats away at the solder.
    Solder is two metals. 51% lead and 49% tin. ( they were making a lead free version back in 90 and might have changed over all of it by now ? I don't know but I think it was more expensive ? It flows just as well and you can't get lead poisoning from it. Although lead poisoning doesn't really happen. You would have to be eating it for lunch to do that. ) those two metals at the precise proportions have a lower melting point than either one has by itself. This is what is called " eutectic ". They were popular for a while in pistons. While not as strong as forged pistons, they are a little stronger than regular cast pistons, while not much more expensive than cast.


    Ok ok I'll shut up now ! Put the noose down please ?

    I'm allergic to Moose Noose's.
     
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  8. Crusader66

    Crusader66 Road Train Member

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    In my e-mail here at work, on an AFB. Just gotta shake my head. IMG_20190615_112219.jpg
     
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  9. MagnumaMoose

    MagnumaMoose Lost or Missing

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    One more thing. VERY important. " The bigger the glob, the better the job " is NOT correct at ALL. It weakens the joint, it has higher resistance to the electricity passing through the connection. Put as little solder on the joint as you can while still having the area fully covered with a thin layer of coating.

    If it already has a lot on it, remove the excess.
     
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  10. Ruthless

    Ruthless Road Train Member

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    Aug 28, 2010
    The City.
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    Sausage and clams?
     
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  11. jamespmack

    jamespmack Road Train Member

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    OH
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    And the wife says I don't pay attention, little does she know.
     
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