Which truck would you take? HELP CANT DECIDE

That is what I would do. Find a pre EGR 387 or T2000 then you have the good motor years and the more efficent body style. If you go with a little bit newer one I would get the C15 motor, not as many emission problems and you can get good power and better fuel economy with some upgrades that will pay for themselves in a short while.

 

BAD BAD BAD mistake.

 

When you get a truck, put it on with landstar and pull a step deck. If you get a pre egr truck you can't go to cali next year. If you don't plan on going to that state then get a pre egr truck. BY the way, there are alot of cheap trucks to buy out in cali. They won't be able to drive them next year. Talked to a guy who paid five thousand for a 2000 shaker in mint condition.

 

apus are not truly that big of a savings. testing has shown that the fuel advertized use and the real fuel use is way different. studies have shown some apus to use up to 1.5 gallons an hour. this is because the apu ad is non load fuel use. when you put heater load or ac load plus you power load for whatever you use it draws down the motor and causes it to work very hard and burn more fuel. however truck studies have found that the avg truck when idled up just a hair above idle burns .5 to .6 gallons an hour. yes its a fuel game these days but dont get taken by false ads from these apu companies. when you add the true fuel use the maintances cost repair cost it crazy how much and apu will cost you. thats also why they are now playing with battery apus instead of deisel motot apus....

 

I'd like to see a reference for that.

Because I can see the fuel savings. I just used 5 gallons of fuel to idle for 3 solid days none stop. Read 72 hours on my APU.

My truck will use 8 gallons in 8 hours.

Even the repairs to my APU are considerably less then the wear and tear I am seeing extended idling is putting on the engine.

So you are going to claim that a 7.5 hp 2 cylinder diesel uses two to three times as much fuel as a 14 L 6 cylinder 515 hp motor?

 

the motor will be good to go....check rears and tranny for play. try turning drive shafts see if they have alot of turn play or any side to side play at the yokes. here is my guide to buying used truck in a list of cost to repaire

Motor 10,000 to 25,000 dollars to rebuild
tranny 2,500 to 8,000 dollars to rebuild/replace
front rear 3,000 to 5,000 dollars to replace/rebuild
rear rear 2,500 to 4,000 dollars to replace/rebuild
tires 350 to 500 steer tires on avg 300 to 500 drives on avg. thats standard duals. more if you have super singles drives jumbo steers

these are the big ticket items. the big ones to worry about the most. you still have breaks fifth wheel(750.00 i just bought one on sale at that price (joist) tuesday normal 980.00) slack adjusters s cams and so many other parts that you really can find out for sure till you run the truck like air to air, rad turbo things like that. but in general if your big items are good to go for a few years you can work normal maintance and be ok to go.....but this is trucking and everything EVERYTHING is a roll of the dice. i have seen used trucks roll a million miles with no majors and brand new trucks fall apart, i have seen used trucks the nickel and dime you to death and new trucks that never seem to need a thing. it like the straw draw who gets the short straw....lol i know this is not very reassuring to hear but its the truth. being an O/o is a different world. be ready to work on your truck when ever needed, changing your own tires alone can save 200 bucks which than can be spent somewhere else on the truck...meaning you dont burn all you repair money on shop rates all the time. yes at some point you will need to put it in the shop but limiting it will help greatly

 

well my 500 detriot 12.7 and 550 cat both tested on a 24 hour period test used 20 buck for 24 hours of idle time when cal it came out to half a gallon an hour

 

If I had to choose from those 4 I'd go with #1. Hoods are great but I like money more. Not saying that an 08 cascadia is a money maker. But if its been well maintained its a better choice.

If I was looking to spend in the $40,000 range I'd look at 06-07 Columbia's, Century's and Volvos with a 60 series Detroit and get a EGR delete done. No DPF (except on a few 07's) and still CA legal. For now.

 

I would not consider any 2008 trucks, avoid 08-09 trucks like cancer, or it will be a cancer in your wallet.

2nd seems like the best bang for your buck.