Will this Battery kill switch work on a semi truck?

I didn't see the specs on the OPs switch so I didn't look for the rated switch, just type of switch.
"Free advice is worth what you pay for it."

 

That switch is rated 200amps. Tbh i have no idea what my truck amp is.

 

This Cole Hersee switch at minimum. Been there, done that, got the sweat stained tee shirt.

The bar type in the OP's opening comment, has several points of failure. One, the corrosion as mentioned. Two, the contact springs in the closed position with weaken the first time a load is put on it even close to "rated" amperage. Three, the rivet pivot pin is another source for arcing under load. Any time you have a moving part directly in the line of power flow (for lack of better description) you have a point of potential power loss.

If you have easy access to your ground cable at the battery, just leave a 9/16" wrench in the cab, behind the seat or wherever is easy to grab, and remove the ground wire from the battery. Or, if you have electricity at the place of storage, put a battery charger/maintainer on it. Even the best, highest rated, USA made switch still has connections that must be maintained to prevent issues.

If you have a draw so large as to pull down a couple group 31s in two weeks, much less over night, you need to find and repair the draw before installing a switch. You may have a bad diode in the alternator etc.

 

I’d also look into a remote one , that could also be used as an anti theft .

and I’ve seen some disconnects that are automatic
If the voltage drops below enough to crank the rig , it disconnects.

and look into some solar panels on the roof to keep the battery topped off .

 

That makes sense. I have to finf that draw, how do I check the alternator?
When I turn off my truck the starter interrupt relay clicks every 2 minutes unless I have the door open or marker lights on, but every 2 minutes and when it happens the light on the engine brake and cruise control switch turn on and off very fast maybe like half a second. Im thinking maybe thats my issue but ive asked several mechanics and they have no clue. I even took it to a place they chargede 2 hours and couldnt figure it out.

 

This switch is the one that is used by most OEM manufacturers, but isn’t branded with the manufacturers name on it.

The Big Switch with Lock-Out and XL Terminals

 

I use those blade style disconnects on all my classic cars that have one battery. They work fine. Never had a problem in 30 years of them corroding, burning, or melting. Alternator amps back through them isn’t high enough to hurt them and a 900 amp start doesn’t hurt them either.

For a big truck with Multiple batteries and big amp alternators and capability of 3000 amp quick starts use what @AModelCat cat posted. Those classic style heavy equipment disconnects won’t do you wrong. I’ve got them on all my trucks.

Reasons to use disconnects is to save batteries from parasitic draw, stop fire hazards if a rodent chews a wire while parked for awhile and is anti theft if hidden.

 

Go to a Volvo dealer, tell them the last six of your vin is 944516. Tell the parts guy you need the battery disconnect switch. Guaranteed to handle the amps.

 

This is the same switch Volvo installs on their trucks from the factory, but price wise it’s less expensive from Flaming River.

 

Yep, just got out and looked...