The best winter advice I got was from a grizzled old-timer in the air lock at Boomtown. We were all chomping at our bits waiting for Donner Pass to open. Word came down we could go but chains were required. I passed him on my way out after going inside to try to ensure it wasn't just a CB rumor. I said, It's open, but we have to chain-up". He said, "Only fools chain-up to drive into trouble". About an hour later I was wishing with all my heart and soul I hadn't been one of those fools.
Winter Tip Thread
Discussion in 'Experienced Truckers' Advice' started by TheDude1969, Dec 9, 2013.
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Middle of the night, driving down interstate 3" of snow covering road markings, praying you keep the wheels somewhere close to middle of lane, and get your doors blown off by another truck. WTF does he know or see that you don't, or is he just an idiot? <---most likely an idiot... but there is also a point where caution turns into stupid slow. From a former white knuckle'er, most of this below is just plain common sense, but I hope it helps someone.
Driving on Snow Cover:
- On interstate hwy's, in most situations the right lane is most desirable, because of the 10ft+ shoulder. <-- Call that your margin of error, or OH #### lane.
- Most if not all states place reflectors 1-3ft off right shoulder of road. <---your still on the road if you can see them.
- When passing or being passed, get it done as quickly as possible, and have wipers ready for the other trucks wake. Find your rumble strip and go, or let go.
- Turn the music down, and the CB up... the only noise you want to hear is the rumble strip, and warnings ahead.
- A line of trucks in the right lane and slowly passing vehicle(s) in left is a "career ender". Wait till the left lane clears before passing, this will also give you time to contemplate why there is a line in the right lane. (you can imagine what a cluster F* this will become if only one person makes a mistake)
Greasy Roads:
- Driving:
- Use your outside temp guage, they are pretty accurate. Keep your mirror heat off, until you see the beads of water have stopped dancing.
- Other than freezing rain/fog, ice generally occurs from tires melting snow and re-freezing. Keep this in mind, you maybe better off hugging the shoulder, or running the left lane.
- Don't blindly trust salted/treated roads. Salt works to around 15f (-9c), however it gets diluted by new snow/melt. Watch for road spray from other vehicles, when you don't see any assume its ice.
- Because of the shorter wheelbase, cars will be the first indication of slick conditions, find one car in ditch maybe just an idiot?...two you can be sure its greasy.
- Approaching an uphill climb, and light...Hope you left enough distance between you and vehicle in front to gas on it. Engage the pwr diverter and find traction where ever you can (Left lane, shoulder, rumble strip)
- Everyone is aware that bridges freeze first, but rarely mention underpasses as well. Whether its shadow, or overhead keeping temps lower, they do freeze and maintain freeze longer than open roadway.
- The first rule, everyone's instinct is to steer right to avoid head on collision... remember that when trying to recover from a slide/jack knife. You are much better off sitting sideways in ditch than involving another vehicle. You may loose your job?, but you live another day to find another.
- The second (first) rule is to keep wheels turning while braking, any lock up can be disaster.
- The most reliable and consistent axle is your steers, you want the brakes identically adjusted. (no matter bobtail, empty, loaded... they hold 10,000-12,000lb of weight and only 8" of tread) <---least likely to lock up in any condition
- Always stay in gear while emergency braking, this will keep least one drive hub turning for traction. Using pwr diverter will keep 2 drive hubs turning, axle lock is even better.
- Never, ever, ever ever stick breaks to floor in panic. This is where distance is factor, you need to take a split second to decide best coarse of action and find your "out". A brake stab will send a surge of air to all wheels and lock up, the trailer will be last and takes up to 3 seconds before it releases. <---meaning you have a full 3-5 seconds without control of trailer.
- Engine/Jake/Retarder is considered out of your control, I agree! However anything that allows wheels turning instead of air brake spike while slowing is preferable. Use it wisely!
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I will bring this thread back up and just add that if the roads seem clear but the conditions are still right for freezing don't run full bore up against thr governor. Powering out is rarely your best choice in a slide but it is a tool in your toolbox. As soon as you run up against the governor you have taken that tool out of your box and left it at home
Macneil, Lepton1 and TheDude1969 Thank this.
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