Your tips and tricks for flatbedding

Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by allan5oh, Oct 28, 2012.

  1. allan5oh

    allan5oh Road Train Member

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    Jan 6, 2010
    Winnipeg, mb
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    I just started doing this about three years ago, and I'm wondering if anyone has any tips or tricks. I'll share what I've learned over the past few years:

    1) Leave the winch bar until you're done with strapping. It's much better to just keep it in your hand rather than putting it down/picking it up every time you deal with a strap. Same thing but opposite when undoing the load, just walk around with the bar and undo every strap, but don't touch them. Put the bar down then deal with the straps.

    2) Some recommended pipes for bungee storage. I found this flat out didn't work because the bungees would get stretched and wouldn't come back, especially in winter. I just use a bin like everyone else.

    3) With tarping I've found a few things. I walk around the load a lot more than other guys do, but it seems to work for me. First I grab four bungees and pin each corner. If there's more than a foot hanging below the rub rail, I'll flip it up and do four more bungees just inside the corners to hold the flap up, that way you're not fighting with it every time you touch a bungee. Now I grab a bunch of bungees and all I do is hang them on the D-rings. After that is done I will go back the other way and feed them around. It works for me, the other way of making one pass doesn't. I find my tarps look much better doing it this way. I'm not wasting time during the trips fixing my mistakes.

    4) Rolling up tarps. Boy I hate doing this by myself. Of course lay the tarp flat and let it dry out and warm up in the sun. I always pull my tarps off first, but roll them up last. When folding them leave about 6" in the middle. Don't go right to the middle. After folding and straightening them by tugging on the corners, fold them again and repeat. Then fold the one bundle over the other one, and then I step on the creases to even them out. I always make sure to have bungees under the end before rolling it up. It's important to get all the creases and folds out. I can get a four piece tarp system for a step deck in a 24x18x56 toolbox with ease now, before it was a battle.

    5) I have some colored bungees so I use them to designate which tarps are what. Since I have a four piece system, I have 3 different sizes of tarps (two middle tarps are the same). No longer wasting time figuring out what is what.

    6) Strap twists are your friend. Except in Ontario!

    7) Belly wraps are your friend as well. But don't only use them. The thing with belly wraps is they never seem to tighten, of course depending on the load. Do you want all of your straps loose? If I have say 5 bundles of 45' steel I will do two belly wraps but won't count it against my strap requirement. They're only there to hold the load together IMO. The other straps are there to hold the load down.
     
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  3. snowwy

    snowwy Road Train Member

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    Jul 6, 2009
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    i do my tarps at the same time i do my straps.

    my back hates the whole tarp session in one whack. and in teh summer heat. my whole body gets exhausted. pack 2 gallons of water and i leave the truck and a/c running.

    i chained down a load once in the texas heat. it was everything i could do to crawl in the truck and back to the sleeper. out of breath. out of energy. i was ready for the clouds in the sky. till i cooled down.

    and no i'm not a BIG boy.
     
  4. flatbed cowboy

    flatbed cowboy Bobtail Member

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    Jun 26, 2012
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    Best tip i can think of as far as tarping and straping is do it right the first time so you dont have to stop a mile down the interstate and fix loose corners, and watch out for those sharp edges on coils. the first coil i hauled was three coils banded together. hit the highway and the wind blew under the tarp and made it catch the edge. the whole back half of the tarp flew off the back of the trailer. every time i got that load after that i would put rubber pads on top of the coils. take your time and make sure you get the tarp on there tight.
     
  5. dirtyrabbit

    dirtyrabbit Medium Load Member

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    Jun 19, 2011
    KS
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    may sound like a cliche', but get yourself organized. Don't get anything out till you need it, and then use it. If it's windy, do 2 or 3 straps before you get anymore out. Don't pull all your corner protectors out till your ready, then get the right amount out. It's a hassle to clean up an area when you don't need to. And this is where you will lose stuff. Sure, the first time on a load is always slow, but the process is usually the same. So don't get in a hurry and follow a progression that you would with most loads. And like Cowboy just said, "Get it right the first time!"
     
  6. barroll

    barroll Road Train Member

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    Nov 23, 2010
    Southwest Michigan
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    With my tarps that have a tail/nose flap, I'll roll the main section of the tarp up until the flap, then roll the flap back towards the main roll. This way, when I have to roll it out, I just drop it at the front or back of the load right on the edge, kick the flap down, and the rest of it to the center of the load.

    I don't use my ratchet binders often, so when I do, I make sure to spray down the threads and ball bearing with PB blaster as I pull them out. Its better to make sure they're all ready to work than to crawl under a vehicle, start ratcheting, and have the hooks start binding up, crawling out, finding that can, crawling back under, spraying it down, breaking the threads loose, and starting again. I can usually do this while the shipper is loading up the trailer, so it really doesn't cost anything time wise to do it beforehand, and it gives the penetrant some time to penetrate and save you some headaches.


    If you make your vee boards out of 2X4's, they can double as dunnage for many loads, whether you lay the two boards next to each other, or folded over on one another. This has helped me cut down on my dunnage weight by being able to toss out a dozen 4X4's. The corner boards work best flat against the trailer, so I'll lay them down first, and save proper 4X4's for second and third level dunnage. This has worked for loads ranging from railroad spikes to lumber. This is especially useful for loads built on 2X4's that sag in the middle. Slip them under a few feet out from the forks, and loading/unloading will go a lot more smoothly.
     
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