Generator for the tractor

As I had mentioned earlier in the thread, this is indeed the problem with most portables.
I've had several brand new "bargain" generators burn themselves up in less than 2 weeks of continuous duty. The new Hondas may be a different breed, but I haven't run one like that yet.
Running A/C is basically continuous duty, and is very hard on an air cooled, lightweight backup genny.
The oil change cycle is very short... sometimes even 24hrs, and they rattle themselves to death in short order.
I'm not trying to be a generator snob, I've just felt the pain of feeling pretty cheated after my <$500 lasted 2 weeks and I'm on my knees with a flashlight at 3am trying to get it started because it's my only power source.

Onan bridges this gap to an extent. Their RV generators are small, and even though not commercial, possibly "medium duty"
Thermal stresses have a direct effect on longevity (especially in air cooled) and I can tell you that watt-per-watt, an Onan RV gen set is heavier than a Costco special.
Onan generators are built with one definitive purpose in mind... to run A/C...summer after summer...as quietly as possible (camp grounds).
That is their defining task and you can find 70's Onans that will still run their ancient Winnebago's roof top units.

Me personally, I'd rather take a chance on a used Craigslist Onan (try Microlite), for $500-$800 than a Costco job site portable.

Other things to consider about an Onan type vs Costco:

1. Single side servicing (important if it's bolted or in a box).
2. Remote start (ie...auto choke), so you don't have to get out to choke it.
3. Sound enclosure
4. Parts availability
5. fuel pump driven (allows remote tank)
6. Configuration (designed to be compact and low profile)
7. Resale value.

Humble Opinions Expressed

 

I had the Honda iu2000 for 4 years running a portable A/C and all the other household electric in my truck for 4 years. I believe what killed it was like you said, running continuous, but also not being diligent about changing oil every 100 hours. I also think it was just a little bit underpowered for my needs, when you put it near max power continuous even a honda will give up sooner or later.

I think my next trick would be to get 2 iu2000's and link them together for the 3200 watt output.

 

I have never run it out of fuel. Has a 3.4 gal tank. The longest I have used it was 11 hours with the heat on. I like the remote start that way it only runs when I actualy need it. Heat, AC and micro. It has an electric choke. When it gets cold I just roll over and start her up. If I get warm I just shut it off. So most times I only run it for a couple of hours a night. As we get farther into the summer may run it more for the AC. I have had it on for a month or so and have about 45 hours on it.

 

Well that's a heck of a run for a portable. I would thank it.

Everyone is going to have different expectations. What climate you spend the most of the time in, what your tolerance to heat is, are you living in the truck or just spending a couple nights in it weekly, do you park during the daytime when the sun is beating on you?....etc.

The generator that's powering this computer right now (via 6kw inverter) currently has 8000hrs on it. It runs twice a day for 3 hours (charging battery bank), or 1/4 of the day if you want to look at it that way.

I've had portables that would only run for a few hundred hours before giving up.

If my generator stops, so does my every day routine because nothing moves forward without it. For this reason, I have to spend the money for something that doesn't leave me scrambling for a replacement.

The same thing would hold true in a tractor. You would have to decide if the savings on a cheaper generator might be worth scrambling to the nearest Costco to replace it...in the middle of your run.
The answer to that will vary depending on your own tolerances and situation (and budget).

 

I have a 780 volvo with a fixed upper bunk that I don't use other than storage. I want to put one of the portable ac units up there, strap it to the rear wall some how. It would up in the hot air of the condo so that should help. I'm wondering if the length of hose to get to the front pass door will be detrimental to the efficiency of the unit? Also, does everyone use portables with the evaporative feature? Does it actually work or do you still get moisture out of the unit?

 

From what I've read about portables, it does effect the efficiency by a noticeable amount.

Now a quick story...
I also own a portable 8000btu unit. I have a mini-camper van (pop top Astro van) that I am going to install this permanently in.
Because of this, I've tested its functionality in hot weather (by letting the van heat up in the sun to well over 120 degrees and then using the AC to cool it down).
Fact.. it takes quite a while to do so. The AC is rated for 320sqft. The van is maybe 6' x 12' inside.

At the same time, I have a "maxi-fan" installed in the roof. It's basically a vent with a fan in it, and mine is the "deluxe" one that has a settable thermostat in it.

Well here's the deal... turning on that little 12v roof fan lowers the temperature of the van 5X faster than the AC does, and I can run it for days on the vehicle's battery.

In an uninsulated space (no attic), the btu being introduced into the cab by the sun is considerable, and my experience is that the most efficient way to deal with it is simply to "let it out" instead of trying to cool it down.

There are many times that this little fan that evacuates hot air collecting at the roof will keep the interior temps tolerable where your AC might struggle with it.
The btu being released by the fan/vent will increase as the btu being introduced to the interior increases. This is not the case with AC where it is dealing with a sealed volume of air being heated by the sun.
It will of course do it...eventually, but it's hard to beat releasing the hot air first.

Because I now have both in the van, my process is to let the fan take care of the heavy lifting, and let the AC handle what's left if needed.

FWIW

 

I run a window unit,.. in the window.




In humid regions it does drip. Its set up to tilt away from the inside. So no water comes inside.

I had plans to go with an indoor up right AC unit and put it in the bin behind the passenger seat. The indoor unit I have at home for use in our Florida room which has no heat or ac uses a pan to collect the water and must be drained. I was going to vent the hot air out through a hole in the side of the sleeper and run a drain tube down through the floor.

I wont be keeping the truck for more than another year, so those plans were scrapped.

Its a 8500 BTU Frigidaire. It works much better than a 8500 BTU GE that I was originally going to use. Truck is has a condo sleeper and keeps the inside temps very comfortable even during the hottest days with the sun beating down on the truck. I found that closing the curtains helps keep the heat from the sun out also.

Hurst

 

I took my 8000 btu back and went 12,000 btu. I tested the 8000 in my truck after sitting in the sun it could only get it down to 75 deg. So i upgraded to 12,000 btu. Made the windows sweat! The shorter and straighter you keep the hose the more efficient in will be. They all have a catch tank you have drain if humidity is high. I just connect a drain hose and run it down the corner of bunk after drilling a 3/4 hole in the floor of tool compartment so it can drain all the time.

 

What generator are you using for the 12000 and how long will it run on a tank of gas?

 

For me it's pure convince. I rarely spend a 34 in my truck. Mane 10 x a year. Mostly 4 nights a week. I got about $1k in the whole setup. Generator, AC, heat, micro, inverter\charger/ shore power, gas can, printer and laptop.

If something happens I'll just idle the truck.

The best part is I can run the whole thing right from my bed and monitor it all with the touch pad.