If you can get over to Cat motor shop they can put it on dino. and run a cutout test at rpm that its acting up at to find the inj. that is still under warnt. from over/haul last year?
Rear end
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by lester, Feb 12, 2018.
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I'm not sure that any cat house around here has a chassis Dyno. Nor will my truck see the inside of one unless absolutely necessary. Injectors should still have warranty and they were replaced by a cat mechanic but on a weekend in his backyard.
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Tech should be able to plug the laptop in and run a cylinder cut-out test with you driving, under various load (or bobtail), going down the road - at least, Cummins shop did this for me.
Rear end problems I have little experience in, aside from jacking the rear up stationary and running it/examining for trouble.
good luck.lester Thanks this. -
Re shimming the input shaft is not that hard. It's right there in the manual on how to do it. The only special tool you need is a dial indicator. it took me 3 tries before I got mine right. It was in fact one of the many vibrations I was trying to fix. Not sure that the symptoms your describing fit that though?
I do encourage you to get it tight though. Your days are numbered if you can feel and see the play on that input shaft.WyoVac, blairandgretchen and BoxCarKidd Thank this. -
Ride height?
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When I first noticed an issue I was cruising down the interstate at 70mph. It would come and go, if I was just cruising on fairly flat ground and not in the power hard it would do it. First thing I noticed was a loud and hard vibration, very similar to what you experience if your ride height is way off, along with that I swear I could feel a surge in the engine. Ever so slight, not enough to see on the tachometer but really thought I could feel it.
At times the truck would blow more black smoke than normal while going through the gears also. I had a code for barametic pressure sensor. I replaced that really hoping it was the issue but no luck.blairandgretchen Thanks this. -
I had a similar concern last summer on my 04 with 1.1 million miles. Symptoms a bit different, thought I could hear/feel a grinding sometimes. Front diff and pd had been replaced, rear as far as I knew was original. I decided to pull oil samples. Front was good, rear came back with off the page (dpq, dpi, ? something like that, means suspended metal particles). So I changed oil, pulled more samples, same result. Like you, last thing I need is an on the road breakdown, so I sent it to the shop for a replacement. When I picked up the old one to take back for core, all the surfaces were covered with small particles of metal, about the size of the head of a pin. Something was starting to come apart, maybe bearings? Everything I could see as far as gear surfaces looked fine, it was from somewhere you couldn't see. So I think I did the right thing. You might want to pull oil samples. That should help you to know whats going on. Minor cost could prevent catastrophic breakdown before it happens.
blairandgretchen and Oxbow Thank this. -
He don' t need oil samples when your plug is full metal shavings. Mud on the plug is normal, but chunks, filings, shavings your done.
That' Is about all a guy needs to see to make up ones mind to replace..
At least it would be mine.
Those old 40,000 eatons eat 2 power dividers in there usefull lifetime I found. By then the whole third member will be shot. The carrier bearings are a week point on those.blairandgretchen and lester Thank this. -
I have Eaton rears. These symptoms sound exactly like mine when the power divider crapped out several years ago.
blairandgretchen, SAR, lester and 1 other person Thank this. -
I’m having the same problem. Just replaced my front diff after it tore up on 75 and on the way from the shop I still felt the vibration again. Did you end up replacing your rear rear?
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