Decision Point - Repair or Replace 2007 Century?

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by JahB, Jan 6, 2019.

  1. JahB

    JahB Road Train Member

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    I'm evaluating options for replacing or repairing my used truck with a new/improved one from an auction. Let's say what I want is a Tri-axle sleeper with something around 800k miles that will cost me around $15k or so. I am more concerned with my truck making me money than making me "proud". I do not care about looking good. I care about earning. So if there is anyone who's made the same kind of decision, or anyone with a valuable opinion or insight, I'm open to hearing it.

    I've been running (and still am) my old 2007 Century (14L series 60 515hp, EF 10 speed) for 2yrs and 3 months. I bought it for $16K with 1.12M miles. She's not perfect, but it has kept me earning for the most part, maybe a week or two of down time total) It now has 1.38M miles on it, and has a couple of current problems. In those two years, the major expenses (not including tires, regular maintenance, two bumpers that deer killed) have included:
    • New Radiator
    • Alternator/4 batteries
    • Starter
    • Turbo and vpod harness
    • Rear brakes rebuild (Scams, drums, shoes, hardware)
    • Rear diff rebuild, carrier bearing, u joints.
    • King pins
    • Tie Rod
    • Treadle valve.
    All to the tune of maybe 15K. The latest (which drove up the total by too much (bad troubleshooting at one shop that cost me a ton in added labor at another) was the turbo/vpod replacement. So, including an inframe done before I bought it, it has gotten a fair amount of attention. The overall cost has been about 31K, or around $1250/mo to run it.

    Now, there are a few new, somewhat lesser problems/maintenance needs.
    • fan clutch
    • shocks
    • bad injector cup/orings (needs all six done, obviously)
    • 4th/9th almost unusable that pops out of gear (rebuild, or maybe it's a repair, or maybe a trans mount)
    • leaky seal on the power steering box
    • bad ride height control valve (rod bent to make the height correct)
    • Rear end of frame a little out of whack, and needs to be shifted over on the axle to straighten it out
    • torsion bar

    I'm earning in the neighborhood of $10-12k/mo net to the truck (after fuel, insurance, taxes, licenses, etc. paid through the small company I work for) running NW regional as a leased-on O/O. Not too bad, but losing time is losing money. I am considering replacing this truck with another used one with somewhat better specs (we do a lot of semi heavy haul (45-55K loads of oil, paper, etc., so a drop axle would help).

    My pessimistic sense is that another truck is an known - unknown, even if it seems like a better fit and looks better, that I may wind up with as much to repair on the "new one" or MORE with an unknown auction truck, or get lucky and run with a jewel without major expense for another couple of years. OR.....wind up needing an inframe two days after I pick it up. I may be coming up with my own answer here, but it seems like repairing what's needed on my existing truck is smarter than getting a pig in a poke at an auction in hopes of MAYBE getting a jewel that does more for me than "Francie" does.

    Any helpful input? I'm guessing I'm looking at anywhere from 3K to 7K to make these repairs, depending largely on the problem with the trans. What would you do?
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2019
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  3. ibcalm19

    ibcalm19 Road Train Member

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    You know what you have that is for sure. I'm not saying the next truck you buy could be a headache it could make you sleep good. I'm getting ready to move on from my 1999 Kw it needs a few things nothing I can fix. I just want to move on to a newer truck. Do what is best for you whether you want to spend money on what you know you have or take a leap. All the best to you.
     
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  4. gokiddogo

    gokiddogo Road Train Member

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    Fix it

    Is the frame adjustment a big expense? I really have no idea. Transmission problem could be minor, I'm sure someone knows what causes that and the estimated repair job cost. Injector cups, how much for that? If you can lock down these estimated expenses you have your answer.

    Have you been doing oil analysis? If it isn't showing a major expense soon I would definitely lean more towards fixing it. If engine rebuild is on horizon I would consider selling.

    All the shocks... torsion bar... fan clutch... ride height arm.... are all small potatos.
     
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  5. rbrtwbstr

    rbrtwbstr Road Train Member

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    Let me star with this disclaimer: I do not own a truck, I'm just a company puke.

    Do you like the truck? If you do, I'd throw money at it. I wouldn't risk an auction truck, especially if it's your everyday bread and butter.

    We run some older equipment around here. And quite a few new gliders. My boss is always buying and selling trucks. The most notorious one he bought about three years ago, from eBay. It was priced about right for the age and miles, but he sure dumped a pile of cash into it, before he sold it for what he had in it. Two weeks later, the engine blew.

    As I said, if you like the truck, and it's not a rolling DOT magnet, I'd keep it.
     
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  6. olddog_newtricks

    olddog_newtricks Medium Load Member

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    First off if you go any newer than an 07 you will have to start dealing with dpf or def emissions problems, depending on how new you go. That's the main reason I'm still running my 06. If you dump that 15k into your current truck you may have more invested in it than it's worth but at least you will know what you've got. That's just my 2 cents.
     
  7. JahB

    JahB Road Train Member

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    I haven't bothered with oil analysis, though maybe I should, (thanks for the suggestion) at least once to see how far out another inframe might be. I don't expect it to be awful, I'm looking at 2100 miles a week, and It doesn't burn oil, but it had leaked plenty with the bad turbo, but I kept it topped up til I fixed that. It gets regular oil changes. If it were a newer truck, I'd probably do the analysis, but I have not.
     
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  8. JahB

    JahB Road Train Member

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    That is EXACTLY why I'm running Francie (07 Century). I would ONLY buy a pre-emissions truck or a glider if I got that lucky..
     
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  9. blairandgretchen

    blairandgretchen Road Train Member

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    Good break down of costs.

    Absolutely start oil analysis.

    If it’s been inframed prior to you, and reviewing the list of what you’ve performed - I’d stick with it.

    If you do decide to switch - pre 2003 for sure.

    I’ve got a ‘95 Pete, 12.7. I’m gonna rebuild this one till I’m done with trucking.
     
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  10. JahB

    JahB Road Train Member

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    Do I love the truck? Well no. It's no beauty, but it's decent. Her interior is tired, some broken plastic, she has a few external scars, nothing major. I don't care near as much about that as that she keeps making money. I make do with her shortcomings, like my wife makes do with mine. lol

    That frame adjustment with the control valve and rod, a torsion bar might run a grand or so at Freightliner.
     
  11. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    One oil analysis is good but you get the whole story when you do them every oil change. You can start to see trends and that is where you can get the problems fixed before more stuff gets damaged.

    Your transmission could be an easy fix or you could be looking at a reman/rebuild. 4th and 9th share the same shift linkage and sliding clutch/gear in the main box. You might get lucky and find out that the shift rail detent is worn out/spring broken or the clutch and gear could be worn out (which means transmission has to come out).

    Torsion bar? Do you mean the rod from the top of the diff housing to the frame rail? If that's what you mean and the bushings are shot, that could be why your frame has shifted.
     
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