Clutch brake removal

Just turn the engine so the clutch brake slots are at 3 and 9 O clock. Take a torch and cut the bottom of it out. Keep fire away from through out bearing and front cover. Turn the engine a half turn and cut the other side out.
That is my way and most of those transmissions do not have a front seal anyway.

 

I used the Haldex 2-piece in my truck.

I chose that because there are no roll pins to install or any of that and once you set it right the actual application of the clutch itself locks it in place.

Then you just need a screwdriver to remove it.



As far as removing the one piece I think that's a really bad job. If you use a torch you're directly underneath that and everything you cut is coming down at you or shooting into the clutch itself.

Even if there is a way to use an angle cutter to cut so far or an angle drill maybe to drill holes through it and then break it off with a half inch extension, the shavings are still coming down at you.

If you do any of this make sure that you have excellent eye protection and that your body is fully protected.

I wonder if it's possible that instead of actually cutting it with the torch to just get it red hot so if you put the extension up there it would break it off.

Maybe get it red hot to 3/4 of the way down and leave the bottom part cold so the extension can get a bite on it?

 

I've had those fall out.

 

Just be careful with a Mack trans. They have a seal.

 

For those that dont know, there is no actual rubber oil seal in front of any Eaton trans. There is no risk from heat damage from the torch.


The input shaft has an oil redirect that drains and oil back throuh a oil passage in the front cover and back to the sump.

Just make sure you lube the throw out bearing good to replace any grease that melted and ran out.

 

For all practical purposes yes. I said the same thing. Some or all had a quad ring up front when shipped. They normally disappeared pretty quick.
AModelCats old KW has a seal in the front cover. I beat it back and forth with him. He found the parts break down on it. Posted those and the real deal ( His truck ) picture of a 15 series Eaton with a front seal.
Not meant to beat you up as I have never seen one as well. It is somewhere in that thousand or so posts on that truck.
Side the brake to the middle and cut away. Should not have to overheat either side.

 

My Eaton RTO-15615 disagrees lol. She's got a lip seal in there, pressed into the bearing cover from the bearing side.

Threw many members on here for a loop as well as 2 shops while I was trying to source parts for it.

 

Dang shoulda read the whole thread lol.

 

In case anyone is curious:
15 speed roadranger help