Hauling Lumber

Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by superdutyfan, Jan 5, 2021.

  1. Qbf594

    Qbf594 Road Train Member

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    Southern Canadian annex, NY
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    Also you can see I had left my 4x4 coil rack timbers on the trailer when I brought it to be loaded. They didn't want to run the other trailer until it had been cleared of damage from the rollover so I brought my trailer and left it for the tow guys to band the lumber and load the deck. I told them about the 4x4 for the front and the back and they did it just right... Not a ton of slope but just enough.
     
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  3. Qbf594

    Qbf594 Road Train Member

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    Southern Canadian annex, NY
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    Last random thought.
    There's a hand saw called a Japanese pull saw. I highly recommend getting 1 even if it's cheap. That's what I made the slot cut in the PVC...but more useful than that...
    See the sticker boards they lay across the bundles? Your lumber had them in the strap bands. But at a lumber mill they sometimes use loose sticks. And sometimes the bundles have little wedges for straightening green wood.
    Both those instances plus other random times I see sticks poking out the side of the load and if it's getting a tarp I use the pull saw to cut them flush so they don't chew tarps or straps.
    Long reach and fast cut. 20210111_230702.jpg
    Yes I need to vacuum lol
     
  4. AKDoug

    AKDoug Medium Load Member

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    Mar 21, 2018
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    Sorry. I turned off the computer for the weekend. I honestly can't give you too much advise without knowing the specifics of your truck and where you're hauling. In my world I'm allowed 88,000 on my truck with 38K on the drivers, and 20k on each of my spread axles. With one my trucks I can easily roll with 54K worth of wood on my trailer. Our usual load of SPF lumber is double stacked on the first 16' and double stacked on the last 20', leaving 8' of single stack in the middle. We run a 45' spread axle flat.

    This is a crappy cropped old photo of a truck I just recently retired. A 260" wb day cab specifically so that I could get the bridge formula needed to haul large loads and 60' beams without a permit. Due to the lengths of lumber in that load I put 46' worth on the bottom tier and had to center up one bundle towards the front to make the weight work. cropped-lumberload-2.jpg
     
  5. superdutyfan

    superdutyfan Light Load Member

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    Mar 14, 2020
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    So as you know I'm new to this 34k allowed on the drives and trailer axel. Can haul 48k of a load 2016 cascadia. My truck with me weighs 32500 lbs. This might sound stupid but I am having a harder time then I thought arranging the loads properly. Weight wise. With this load I had 32k on the trailer had 71psi on the trailer and 28k on the truck at 53psi
     
    cke Thanks this.
  6. BackwoodsGA

    BackwoodsGA Road Train Member

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    Famous banana load.
     
  7. cke

    cke Road Train Member

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    Pressure gauge on truck is NOT going to be the same as the one on the trailer
     
    Tug Toy and beastr123 Thank this.
  8. HoneyBadger67

    HoneyBadger67 Road Train Member

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    Savannah, TN
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    I know they're a pita, but when there are winches on both sides I'd rather use straps with chain ends. That rub rail is for protecting my equipment, not securing to.
     
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  9. Dave1837

    Dave1837 Road Train Member

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    Pennsylvania
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    I agree! Unfortunately a lot of our older East trailers have a rub rail designed for load securement. I use J-hooks whenever I can, but a lot of the trim board and super sacks we haul prohibit us from putting them in the slots cause the load is 100" wide
     
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