The cracks/holes at the bottom of the channel is due to corrosion.
Those can be temporary repaired by 1"X3" aluminum. Drill the the plate, stringer and crossmember, use self tapping to bolt back down. Need to do it to each of the channels the length of the crossmember.
Do that to each crossmember where it's corroded/starting to.
The holes are big enough, is the stringer wood or composite?
If they're wood, anything done will just be temporary, if composite it may last a while.
Reefer floor repair
Discussion in 'Refrigerated Trucking Forum' started by TCF, Mar 16, 2022.
Page 6 of 9
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I will check next time I'm empty...
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And what about the ones on top of the rails? What about trying to find a section of floor from a scrap yard and bolt it over those spots in the channels and then caulk around?
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Tabs in the channels, weld the tops.
Floors come in a little over 2' wide sections and then welded together. Look at the seams on your floor. Another section laid over the old one will never fit tight without cutting all the seams and re-welding.
Putting anything higher than the floor just gives a forklift something to hit and tear out.TCF Thanks this. -
Good point...
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Do you do a lot of welding?
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So the welder about a grand.
The spool gun about 250.
Everyone seems to recommend 100% argon for shielding gas... No idea the expense...(i have oxygen and co2 for brewing at home and I got the cylinders for free......)
Wire spool... 50 ish
Tips 7ish each..
Ugh? -
Not as much as i used to. I'm lucky to have a good trailer place real close.
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If I go the route of buying the gear maybe I can convince the owner to have me work on his other trash trailers to offset the costs.
Looking online that hobart 210 mvp that EverLuc recommend seems to be everyone's favorite.
Any other recommendations? Any advice? 100% argon or mixed?
And if I go the welding route should I just weld channel pieces into the channels? -
Always used argon.
The floor has to be tight to the stringers so you still may have to screw it down. Nothing special need to do that.
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