Securing that vehicle, help!

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Big wrong there. You have to tie to an “unsprung” point. Anything on the wheel-end, including the wheel are fair game. The only time really that you can tie to the chassis is when your trailer is rigged in such a way that you can pull all the travel out of the suspension. Like open rack car haulers. Those guys can tie to chassis slots and pull stuff down till the tires are flat with those things if they want to.

 

No way you could be stupid enough to go for two coils with two chains. Has to be either taken halfway through loading or beyond lazy.

 

Ok.
That’s it!!
I’m tired of trying to strap this freakin wheel to this freaking trailer, ain’t nobody got no time for dis.

 

It ain’t me on that trailer buddy.

 

I get that. I don’t think I’d let them pull out with just two chains. I’d block it for sure.

 

Over the tire be best. Through the wheel works if the winches are on the trailer and you can keep your strap short. You usually end up a long way from the wheel to make room for a portable ratchet when you’re through the rim instead of over the tire. Bigger trucks, like say an F450 with a service body on it. You want that cross chained from whatever you can get onto on the axles.

 

Wheels have sharp edges in the castings that can snag and cause a rub point on straps. Doing warranty adjustment claim inspections in the tire industry I have witnessed a couple hundred or so aluminum wheels over the years with cracked spokes due to straps or chains run through them during towing. Oe stuff especially GM wheels have been made in china since 2008 or so with impure alloys. The 2010-13 Camaro wheels are the worst for spokes cracking when strapped. Mazda Miata and Nissan Sentra wheels with the pencil thin spokes are second place.

 

Also. You won’t hurt the tire none if it is fully inflated. You can only damage/ break the fabric plies if the sidewall gets pinched/ folded like it does when sitting flat.