2001 FLD starting issues.

Discussion in 'Freightliner Forum' started by lciambotti1, Aug 3, 2020.

  1. RocketyMan

    RocketyMan Medium Load Member

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    Jun 5, 2015
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    From factory, says you have a Cummins N14 and you have a push-to-start switch.
    Your dash switch panel:
    upload_2020-8-3_14-1-19.png


    Did you also check your mag switch? Maybe you're calling that your relay...? Here is some wiring--hopefully you are familiar.

    Here is the circuit table:
    upload_2020-8-3_14-13-36.png


    Here is your wiring for the solenoid:
    upload_2020-8-3_14-14-17.png


    Here is the mag switch wiring:
    upload_2020-8-3_14-15-13.png


    Check circuits: 14, 74, 82

    Your setup should look something like this:
    upload_2020-8-3_14-20-45.png


    Here is your mag switch. Maybe the ground is not connected well enough (should be on your firewall):
    upload_2020-8-3_14-26-41.png



    Here should be a rough schematic with everything hooked up. I think your system is a no thermal switch:
    upload_2020-8-3_14-30-19.png




    Please post your findings and updates.
     

    Attached Files:

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  3. lciambotti1

    lciambotti1 Light Load Member

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    Mar 6, 2015
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    Thanks boss. Yep. Mag switch was changed out as well. I’m going to put a new ground from the battery to frame, and replace the starter. I’ll report back what I find.
     
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  4. lciambotti1

    lciambotti1 Light Load Member

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    Yep. All grounds cleaned. Not I’m starting to replace them.
     
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  5. lciambotti1

    lciambotti1 Light Load Member

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    Nope. No warning lights. Actually shows 14 volts even when it shuts off.
     
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  6. lciambotti1

    lciambotti1 Light Load Member

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    Mar 6, 2015
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    I forgot to mention that after the starter, relay, mag switch changed it started a few times. My driver took off to to MA and it started going the same thing. I had him pull started and told home to leave it run till he got back to the yard. Well it was running fine, from MA to FL, TN, AL and he noticed it surging coming up through VA. He pulled over and it idled for a few minutes then shut off. Got him going again for about 49 miles, same thing. Got him pull started and he made it about 300 miles and again the same thing. Batteries are still charged but just the clicking. This sucks!!
     
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  7. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    Aug 8, 2015
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    Warning lights should come on, when keys turned on. If not ecm isn’t getting juice. I think it should still crank though. I can’t make heads or tails from wiring diagrams myself. But a test light, on the selinoid would tell a lot. A bad ground at the small ground wires on the frame, near battery box, Along with checking the small hot in the battery box. Check the online fuse. Those two, power the ecm, and dash warning lights. My guess is a broken wire from the button to selinoid, at the selinoid. Both are very common problems. If it’s the problem, should be able to jump the selinoid, and make it crank. Doing so puts 12 volts to starter, and may overheat it, or damage it. I’ve done it to mine plenty of times. I’m sure I shortened the life of the starter. But it still works, and it’s 20 yrs old
     
  8. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    2 separate problems. Little wires for ecm in battery box are causing it to die. Starter button wire to selinoid is keeping it from starting. Try to jump the selinoid, with key on, see if it will crank. Also clean little ground wire on frame near batteries. Check fuse for good luck.
     
  9. lciambotti1

    lciambotti1 Light Load Member

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    I’ll check for a possible broken ecm wire at the battery.
     
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  10. xsetra

    xsetra Road Train Member

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    Those 2 wires from battery to ECM should be fused.
     
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  11. lciambotti1

    lciambotti1 Light Load Member

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    Mar 6, 2015
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    Ok, so all grounds have been replaced. It appears the fuse that protects the ECM blows as soon as the batteries are connected. Don't see any wires touching around the truck at all. Any thoughts?
     
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