Rearend parts

Standard equipment in some year models.
You already know the Merritor name replaced Rockwell? Before that they had a joint venture called Rockwell International.
At other times they used a lot of Spicer products.
You are probably running SQH Rockwells. Pic of LF front diff unit?

 

I thought the main companies were Dana/Spicer, Eaton/Rockwell, and Meritor. Who owns who now?

 

@God prefers Diesels. Go to Inland Truck Parts on I-10 west bound side across from Pete and KW. Talk to Wayne. They are the go to guys for Rockwell/Meritor, Dana/Spicer, Eaton, and National seal. Anything driveline,trans, and diffs. They normally have most stuff on self.

They been keeping my ancient SQHP’s and SQ100’s rolling.

 

Rockwell became Meritor after Rockwell sold off its automotive division to concentrate on aerospace. Detroit Axle that Freightliner uses was a spin-off of Rockwell at that time too.

Rockwell sold it to Arvin to first become Arvin-Meritor

 

It Might pay to check the Breather on that Front Diff is working as It should, Too.......

 

It is.

 

Meritor/Rockwell are in my mind one of the most reliable diffs outside of OEM Mack diff. Not a fan of eaton/dana/spicer diffs.

I currently have about 300k on a set of factory meritors with aluminum carriers. I dont have anything bad to say yet.

 

Moog all the way

 

I have R945007 and 008 for this axle. Input nut 2 1/4, output nut 55mm. (I expect input nut was metric too, maybe 57mm. They didn't have 57mm, and 56 was too tight, 58 too loose)

Anyways, you said you removed the wear ring. I am currently fighting the OUTPUT pinion. I have a unitized seal like the rear main seal on an ISX engine. The seal did not look like it would fit the yoke, however it fit the housing well. My yoke measured 3.10" wide, but there's no spec for that. It should be either 3.00 or 3.25. Now there was a flange on that yoke that looked like a metal dust cover. Was that actually a wear ring that I should have removed? Here's what's happening -

I drove the seal into the housing. I put on the yoke and finger tightened the locknut. I started using a 1/2" ratchet to seat this yoke into the seal. Of course this did not seem right, but I figured it's a seal, so what the hell it should be tight. Anyways I get sick of fighting the ratchet, so I put the 3/4" gun on it, and finish seating the yoke. Now I can't move the yoke. I put a 24" pipe wrench handle through the U-joint straps and put everything I've got into it to get it to rotate. So I figure using the output shaft to pull in the yoke has got the bearings in a bind. I get a block of wood and a 4 lb sledge and beat on the output shaft. Didn't help. So I back off the nut some, and sure as ####, it starts to turn nice and easy. But the thing is, that nut is supposed to be 600-700 pounds torque. I've got maybe 80 lbs on it right now. Any more, and it starts to bind again. I could stick a piece of dynamite under this ####ing truck right now.

Any ideas on what the heck I'm doing wrong here? Never had a problem with a pinion seal in my life. I'll post a pic of old seal and new seal from my phone.

Edit: Ignore the part number on the bag. You can't mix up the front and rear seal because they are way different in size, so that's not the problem.

 

Can you post a pic of the seal surface end
of the yoke?