No power to marker light

It is a mystery to me why repairs, using the highest quality heat shrink butt connectors lose connectivity. But I have seen the same many times. Corrosion I suppose is the culprit.

It doesn't look like a hack job. Wonder why they have had to repair it in the same place twice?

 

I love those Deutsch connectors. Simple and dependable. When I wire up my W900A I'm doing it all with Deutsch if I can.

 

I bought this tool kit a few years back. I don't use it often so I figure why buy the expensive one.
Deutsch Terminals Service Kit | Tool Aid

As for pins and connector bodies we get ours from a local supplier but literally everyone makes them. Grote and CAT are 2 that come to mind. I prefer the full round barrel pins over the open style. They seem to crimp easier and look nicer than the open style.

 

Always mind boggling. Used the right connector, sealed the heat shrink, then put a mile or two of electrical tape around it, yet still, the road salt or the salty environment got in there.

I used to be an offshore fisherman in Florida, and it was the same story on my boat.

Somewhat tangentially related, there is a really good military spec product called Corrosion Block by Lear chemical that works wonders keeping rust at bay on steel should you ever have a need for it. It is rather amazing technology.

Lear Chemical Corrosion Block

 

Hey thats cool... I didnt even know you could repin plugs! I may have to look into carrying some of that stuff for my truck as well. I suppose there are several styles of plugs and pins, depending on make of truck?

 

The good heat shrink butt connectors typically corrode because

1. the wrong crimp spot is used on the tool
2. Over stripping the wire
3. Overcrimping the butt connector damaging the heatshrink sleeve
4. Using too high of a heat basically burning the sleeve.
5. Not heat shrinking it at all
6. Some combination of the above