2018 579 Peterbilt X15 Cummins Constant Regen

How much did they charge you to install that nox sensor and what was the actual cost of just the part?

 

From what I'm told it's a good rule of thumb, if you replace one nox sensor to replace the other as well. I'm sure you know that it doesn't require a mechanic. Just a couple bolts, then plug&play.

Just replaced both of mine a couple weeks ago.

 

I always wonder what slight humming was, sounded like the OP said, like it wanted to do a regen but the light on the dash never came on. Now I know it’s the VGT changing the exhaust back pressure. Thanks for clearing that up. I’m still trying to adjust to this newer emissions engine and I’ve had it 2 years already.

 

The 21 and newer engines even have a completely different sound to it. Kinda sounds like the turbo is clamping down to slow the engine speed while shifting. On an engine that is choked/ RPM limited it almost makes it hard to shift like when you forget to turn the engine brakes off. You defiantly have to pay attention, there is not much forgiveness.

One of things you just have to feel to understand what I’m talking about.

 

Make sure you don’t get the parts mixed up. Seen too many times an inlet on the outlet or viseversa. Some of the remans look identical and it is possible to plug them in. Especially prior to 2016. Wish they would dumb it down and label them or at least the box which is which.

 

Im no pro like you guys but I prefer the engine brake activation latched with the brake pedal. I find myself constantly turning the switch on/off when set to manual mode which is stupid annoying.

 

I have similar problems about 3 times a year. Starts regenning everytime I stop. Then after a while it will start setting off alarm and show the DPF shut off truck .... And show the DPF full image on display.
Nothing much. It is always the DPF pressure sensor. I carry a spare with me now "QUOTE="Brandon0928, post: 12215054, member: 332623"]2018 579 Peterbilt Had engine light come on monday morning while it was idling to warm up for the day. Truck since then would regen anytime I come to a stop sign or anything to do with slowing down where rpm got under 1000. Engine light went away around 11am and turned back on shortly until 4:30pm and shut back off. Took truck in and had fault code 3725. They replaced inlet nox sensor. Went to pick up the truck and when I turned the key the ignition was just clicking and the bunk alarm and espar heater was turning on and off. When the key was turned there was no power to the truck at all. Hooked up battery cables and did nothing. Mechanic did something with the battery cables and got it started. I noticed today that when I left the shop and was coming to a stop sign it started to regen. Here’s the kicker. I pull into the farm as it starts to regen because I’m slowing down and got parked, if I idle it up to 1000 and then cut the cruise it will stop the regen. If I idle it up a notch to 800 it starts to regen. Idle back up to 1000 and cut the cruise it stops the regen. So truck normally idles at 700. If I bump it up to 800 it starts a regen and can stop it by putting it up to 1000. Whenever I do idle I’ve always idled at 900-1000 and never had this issue. It sounds like where the egr cooler is it makes some sort of leaking noise and told that to the shop and they said they couldn’t find a leak there and what I’m hearing it the exhaust going through egr valve when it opens. But it seems I can hear it at all times. And while it regens it sounds more like a ticking noise. I don’t have access to insite so I’m very limited to what I can see. I have geotab to track ifta and that will show engine codes but not really live data other than a few things ( Temps and fuel consumption ) anyone here anything like this ?[/QUOTE]