Hi everyone. My lovely emissions truck basically exploded a few weeks back so I picked up this 90 T600 with a B model and 13 speed with 3.55 rears 11R 24.5 tires. I've been driving for 20 years but this is my first mechanical engine and I have a few questions.
Anything I need to know about starting in cold weather 10-20⁰?
I have a hole in the dash next to the column, I'm assuming it is for a hand throttle or throttle lock. Previous owner ran Seattle to Portland and back daily and didn't use the sleeper so no need to hold the idle up. Can I get the parts from KW or maybe a scrap yard or?
Oil temp gauge does not work. Looks like a temp sender in the oil pan driver side but no wire going to it. Is that the typical place for the temp sender or is it somewhere else?
It has factory style cruise control switches but does not work. From my research it would have been a king unit. Any info on checking that out would be great.
Engine runs 1600 rpm at 65 and 1725 at 70. Are rpms that high ok?
I plan to roll in rod and main bearings when the weather warms up in a couple months so I know they're good to go.
Lastly it has some white smoke on cold idle for 15-20 minutes then it clears up. I understand this is normal but wanna make sure. Smoke smells like fuel.
Sorry for the long read just want to learn and keep this truck healthy and on the road for a long time.![]()
T600 with 3406B questions
Discussion in 'Kenworth Forum' started by WMGUY, Feb 23, 2023.
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My 92 had crazy smoke, mostly white, some black.coughs, spits, even a little bit in the slightest of cold weather. Just accepted it as normal. I think the rods and Mains are suggested every 250k. Maybe overkill in real world use. I’m not sure. Mine was a 1992 C model, suggested every 500k. I think maybe the rod bearings were larger on the C model. I had them done @500k . Old ones looked good still. Great engine. The best at the time. All I ever did was a waterpump and fan, fuel pump at 1 mil. Cat Dealer damaged a few teeth on the bull gear while doing the job. Wouldn’t stand behind their work. Never had a problem myself, but a friend of mine had trouble with leaking injector cups on few of his Cats over the years. Usually can tell by a hard crank in the morning, due to fuel being built up on the piston, from what I understood. Bad enough I imagine could cause a hydro lock. Other than that, maybe find someone who knows how to properly rebuild and tweak the fuel pump so that you won’t be scrambling around if it’s ever needed. Rotella every 12k was the norm, along with Cat only filters. For some reason certain ones wouldn’t run well with aftermarket filters. Old timers swear by them, and the Rotella. I did as I was told, Lol. It started using a gallon between changes @ about 750k. Used almost 2 gallons @ 1 mil. I’d usually just change it when it was only 1 gallon low, Later as usage increased adding one gallon, then changing it when it was a gallon low again. It was cost effective, since once the oil was dirty, added oil seemed to burn up quickly anyway. Just wasn’t worth it to keep adding. Cheaper to change it. That’s about all I know. Was just starting out learning back then. Another thing. Exhaust manifold bolts tend to rust and snap off. Something to watch for. Cause it to lose boost. I ran mine a few years with one broken bolt. Still pulled better than either of my 500 Detroit series 60’s I’ve since had. Drive it right, with that Truck’s aerodynamics, should get 6 mpg or better. The excellent torque keeps it consistent, loaded heavy or empty. Very little difference, usually less than .5 mpg. One more thing, keep an eye on the balance damper. Watch for a wobble. Easily seen while idling, along with the whole bottom pulley, can’t miss it, very obvious. If it starts to wobbling, get a new one when it’s convenient. Not an emergency, as in impeding doom break down , but obviously very important.water pumps are known to seep occasional from the weep hole. It’s normal. Very small amounts, Cats fix was to put a styrofoam filter type plug in it. Lol. That was about 1997-98. Supposedly all the “bad “ water pumps were gone. The new improved ones still leaked though, the plug hopefully kept it from showing till it could evaporate. No big deal.
Last edited: Feb 23, 2023
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The oil temp I would run a Continuity or a Oems test to make sure the sending unit is the problem and not in the wiring you can buy that sending unit anywhere Napa or Amazon same goes for the hand throttle
Cold starts in 10 or 20° weather .. I would plug the block heater in if possible.. Don't go using starting fluid .. if its a decent B model it will cold start .. but I hate doing that the
All I've ever run for 35 years are B models and You gota find the sweetspot but 1750 is not to high by any sorts .. I run 1800 to 2000 rpms .. and don't like to get much below 1550 or 1600 .. just don't lug them under 1450 and I personal don't like that low watch your pyro and let it dictate how things are going
You have a nice set up as far as gearing goes ..
The cruise.. I can't offer any advice
I didn't read all of @Rideandrepair post I was typing this but I know him well enough he wouldn't miss lead youLast edited by a moderator: Feb 23, 2023
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If that's your first mechanical, don't forget the throttle on those controls rpm, not fuel. And once you get the muscle memory, it's super easy to shift smooth as butter.
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Nice looking truck. Hand throttle should be easy to get. Truck shop might even have one. Easily found on Amazon too. Just not sure what length you'd need.
Cold start just keep it plugged in all night.
Rpms are fine. Plenty of big cube engines run 2200 rpm all day long. Biggest thing is don't lug it!!!!.
We had a 89(I think) T-600 with a big cam, single straight stack out the passenger side, I would run the Interstate at 75mph and that big cam turning 2000rpm+. Would scare the crap out of other big trucks when I passed em. That was a fun truck to drive.
I like my electronic engine but mechanicals are fun to drive tooWMGUY, Rideandrepair, RubyEagle and 1 other person Thank this.
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