I bought a Scangauge which reads the ecm outputs and it kicks on at 205 but I have been running it manually to keep it cooler longer.
3406E Getting Hot
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by AMC500, Jul 2, 2023.
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That is one of my concerns. The shop that installed it said it could but I’m unsure of the reputation of the shop. I have used the scan gauge to check the gauge which is a little off but I haven’t used an infrared gun to check. Do these motors have an idiot light for when it gets to hot? I have seen 224 and it was when I wasn’t paying attention and immediately backed way off.
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I will double check this when I bring the truck back to the shop tomorrow.
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The fan isn’t installed backwards but it is a little smaller than the shroud. I believe it is about 29” in diameter.
Attached Files:
Oxbow Thanks this. -
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Probably 30% lost in cooling efficiency there
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That would make sense. Just makes changing the belts harder since you have to remove the shroud to lower the fan. Changing the fan to a bigger one would be an easy inexpensive solution to try first. Where do you think is the best place to find fans?
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If it was me I would find my issue. I would plum a pressure gauge into an existing outlet from water pump and check pressure should be 14lbs or so. If that’s ok I would go to radiator and check temp differential between top and bottom hose if it’s much over 15 degrees you have a flow problem. Is the vent line from thermostat housing to top tank clear and flowing with engine running? Is the front of the oil cooler clean of all debris cause that’s where they collect. The odds of the radiator itself not being big enough are good. It takes way more radiator for a 14.6L 550 than an N14 at 340. Is there a shop towel in the system??
The fan may very well be a part of it, however is it all of it? I would try to find out if the same C500 came with the same radiator for both engines. I also can’t tell you how many times in life I have seen an old tired motor rebuilt only to run hot after. The radiator being the cause, because the motor was tired it had enough flow to keep it in check even though its flow was way down. Once the motor was back close to 100 percent it can no longer keep up. And as stated I can’t tell you how many times I have asked people if it’s clean in the front to be assured it is. The first thing I see is grass hanging out between the radiator and air to airRideandrepair, Oxbow, Big Road Skateboard and 2 others Thank this. -
Thank you this is what I was hoping for.
Which line is coming from the thermostat housing? Is it the top right next to the main upper hose?
I did just see a video of the guy rebuilding one and finding a rag in the oil cooler.Attached Files:
wore out Thanks this. -
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Curious if you've seen any that didn't have pressure, and the WP shaft wasn't broken. By chance I happened upon checking pressure way back. Was thinking roughly 15 PSI was what I found on one I checked after replacing.
Got to be a thing on those where it was the first thing I checked on a CAT if no obvious issues (like a radiator plugged with chaff). All those I found with zero pressure were broken shafts. Never found an intermediate pressure -
Very rarely I have seen the impeller plate really pitted and terrible shape have like 9 to 10 lbs. so I’d replace water pump and impeller plate. This only fixed a not so bad problem or one that took long cycles at full load to show up. Under most conditions you never know it had problems. So if I was working on something like the o.p has going on I’d tell the customer but also tell him this isn’t your main issue. I hope that makes senseRideandrepair, Oxbow and Big Road Skateboard Thank this.
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