She's got 315k on the clock and I'm pretty sure has never had the tranny nor diff oil changed. Now is a semi like a car where once you start to get up over 100k on a car and the trans has never be flushed and filled your better off leaving it alone.
Or should I get the trans and diff done ASAP?
And what oil is best to use for each?
KEEPING THE TRUCK HEALTHY
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Iceman1643, Oct 28, 2024.
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The company uses Mobil-Exxon semi-synthetic on all our trucks.
She's heading in for her next oil change and switching it over to Rotella.
Should stay semi or go full sythetic?.....
I dropped a gallon of Lucas in on the last oil change but Lucas recommends 2 gallons for semi engines. Stay this course as well?
And thanks for all the great advice so far fellas!! -
In my experience jugs of DEF can be hit or miss. DEF degrades quicker the warmer the temperatures are and it has a finite shelf life. If the distributor doesn't rotate their stock regularly you could end up getting a jug of DEF that tests outside acceptable limits for urea concentration.
BoxCarKidd and Iceman1643 Thank this. -
What you suggest? Pump or box?
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I wouldn't put much stock that car...."myth"?.
Clean fluid is what is the most important. Oil, petrol or synthetic lasts a very long time in spec. It's the contamination that kills components. Wear occurs no matter the type and viscosity of fluid. Those small mico bits of wear material then circulate and re-circulate etc., etc., exacerbating the wear issue. So with the current filtration capacities etc., it's best to just change more often to keep the fluid clean. Just like fuel, keeping it clean and the filtration systems maintained will go a long way toward component longevity.
If you read any manuals, it usually has these words following the recommended oil type and viscosity "or equivalent". As stated by another reply, buy the best you can afford. There are many brands and types mentioned if you do a search. But Mobile is mentioned a lot as is Shell. I personally have been going with Amsoil full synthetic is everything. But I am not recommending Amsoil, only stating that I use it. Amsoil is not always available in every store you may use in your travels, so that is a consideration as well.
Differentials are so overlooked, yet so very important. Modern diffs seem to use a 50w full syn even from the factory. I wonder if your cascadia has the micro polish gears? That is a technology advancement for certain. If it does, keep up the fluid changes and maintenance and they will last you a long time.Iceman1643, TXCOMT and AModelCat Thank this. -
I've got close to a million miles on def Era trucks and can count on 1 hand how many problems I had with def at fuel pumps..not saying it doesn't happen or that my experience is the only. But I don't think it would be worth the hassle buying box.
The only time I done that was in the winter and every pump i went to for 4+ days were frozen and I almost was emptyBoxCarKidd, Iceman1643 and Deezl Smoke Thank this. -
As an owner operator I recommend getting a scanner tool that allows you to do forced regens. I currently use OTR Diagnostics and I do a forced regen once a week to keep my DPF clean. I also clean the 7th injector once a month and add Lucas Diesel Deep Clean once a month. I’ve got a 2020 Cascadia with 520K miles and the engine does run strong. I did have the valves adjusted and oil suction manifold replaced at 500K miles.
Deezl Smoke and Iceman1643 Thank this. -
Why just the 7th injector?
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And I can do a forced regen on my truck whenever I want to. I guess the 2022 is different than the 2020
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That’s good you can do forced regens whenever you want on the 2022. I wish mine would allow it, but only when the soot level is really high. When I clean the 7th injector I get a little more power and better fuel economy. The 7th injector is easy to get to on the DD15 and I clean it during my 10hr break. With my scan tool I like to monitor the Live Data while driving and today my MIL came on while driving. The screenshots were from my OTR scan tool and I like how I can also reset the fault codes. I know you can reset the fault codes if you unplug the battery for at least ten minutes as well, but this just makes it easier. I also like to see the “ghost codes” you can’t see from the dashboard.
Deezl Smoke and Iceman1643 Thank this.
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