this is the firewall solenoid. what problems would this one cause? the left big lug seems to be ground, the right big lug is 12v constant, and the small stud is also a ground. this one has no 12 volt key on.
Ignition wiring help
Discussion in 'International Forum' started by kev2809, Dec 27, 2024.
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The firewall/starter solenoid is a intermittent duty solenoid. One big post is 12 volts the other big post goes to the small post on the starter solenoid to engage the starter. The small post on the firewall solenoid should go to the key switch or starter button. The coil in the starter solenoid is internally grounded to the mounting bracket.
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ah ok..so this new one I got should work for the firewall solenoid? I connected my multimeter to the 12v stud on the right on the solenoid and probed a good ground a got a 12.6 volts. the other big lug, and the small stud didn't have any power to it, even with key on. however, when I used the ground probe on the big left stud and probed the right stud, it showed 12 volts, same with the small stud. would a faulty solenoid be getting these results?
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The probe is getting a ground through the starter solenoid and then through the firewall solenoid winding. Sounds normal to me. If you jump power the the small post on the firewall solenoid the starter should engage and start cranking the engine.
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ok, correct. tried that and it tried to crank, so im guessing the firewall solenoid is good and is doing its job. so im thinking i have 2 seperate problems. with the 12 volt ACC problems, maybe the brand im using is the problem. everytime i replace i use the same one and it doesnt last too long. i will run the one i bought til it craps out, but im thinking of using a different option next time. im thinking as long as its continuous duty with higher amp rating i should be ok.
now, on the cranking issue, i have been toying with my key switches and both of them lose ACC power when cranking, is this normal? -
I cant tell from the wiring manual if the accessory circuit power is supposed to shut off when the key is turned to start. It might be a way of making a few more cranking amps available for the starter. I don't see that being a problem and if both switches do it its probably correct.
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When you crank the engine, battery power is connected from BAT terminal to ST terminal at your key switch. This will send 12 volts to that small wire on the firewall solenoid. The original wire diagram shows the wire from ST to the firewall being #17A, 18 gauge dark blue and triple stripe orange, OR 16 gauge Violet and single stripe white. I am suspecting this wire is bad between your key switch and the firewall solenoid. Run a new wire, 14 gauge, between the ST terminal of your key switch to the small stud on the firewall solenoid.
P.S. that accessory relay will lose power when cranking, this is normal and should not be wired to be live during cranking. -
the Acc wire and BAT wire is what's on the toggle switch. so that toggle is feeding 12 volt to the ACC to make it turn on..why, I have no idea. so, what your saying is the small wire on firewall solenoid isn't getting power?
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That's right. Why or how your toggle switch set up is working is a bit of a mystery to me without being able to see it. It's pretty common to see a non-factory wire or two in older trucks, lol! We can only guess how it's been rewired.
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