3406B Advice

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Mb83, Nov 23, 2024.

  1. ElmerFudpucker

    ElmerFudpucker Road Train Member

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    I haven’t met an engine yet that doesn’t pull better over 1500
     
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  3. Mb83

    Mb83 Bobtail Member

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    Counter bores have been cut, got a square port head from pai but doesn't seem to have the revised coolant passage in the back of the head so sorting that out.

    Just wondering with the ipd kit and 7w7031 nozzle setup what it will be putting out hp wise approximately? I certainly dont want to play with the timing or the fuel considering your experience. Assuming advance and pump setup to stock 425 7fb specs? The old clutch is fine but we have a good 2050 but will have to get the flywheel bored out to fit. Reading some of your other posts @wore out and some other forums suggest 550ish but know that depends on alot of variables.

    We have an mxs at 550 and 5ek at 600 with supporting mods, not looking at beating those with a b block just trying to make the truck useful instead if buying a different truck with no history. Again appreciate the help.
     
    broke down plumber Thanks this.
  4. miketurner84

    miketurner84 Bobtail Member

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    It would be interesting to have your final feedback when you will do it.
     
  5. wore out

    wore out Numbered Classic

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    GWell it can still be all over the board. Depending on how good shape plungers and barrels are, lift pump, having all the air out of the fuel etc. I say all that because a B model will still run pretty fair with a minor issue. Rather than find and fix this day and age most just want to turn it up. I think this stems from putting a “tune” on the electronic motors. Very few realize how good a 425 runs if it’s right. If you combo is right it ought to lay out 500-550. Now that said the 5EK at 550 is gonna be stronger the mechanical just won’t produce the torque that an E will.
     
  6. Mb83

    Mb83 Bobtail Member

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    Yup makes sense, thanks.

    The guy that rebuilt the pump set it at 20% over (rack 3.26mm, torque 4.22m). He said 1 turn of the screws equal 1mm. Guess I'll turn them down 20%.

    Question about the new head. It came without the coolant passage drilled in the rear between the last two head bolts. I'm getting it machined so it's there. Now is that all the needs to be done or should I route that new passage to the pump? Also some say to route the port in the back of the block to the water pump or compressor (right now that port is used to supply heater circuit for the fuel tanks we rarely use).

    He won't be able to meter time it for a bit. Should be safe to pin time it with the flywheel to pump for now? The timing advance was in great shape.
     
    broke down plumber and Oxbow Thank this.
  7. wore out

    wore out Numbered Classic

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    Back of head to left rear block corner. Some new heads come drilled some don’t.
     
  8. ElmerFudpucker

    ElmerFudpucker Road Train Member

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    Why? And should it be machined out for it?
     
    Oxbow and wore out Thank this.
  9. wore out

    wore out Numbered Classic

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    It helps cool the rear of the block. I always mark and drill mine. Being honest I’ve read somewhere that’s it’s not necessary on the new CAT heads but I can’t help myself habits and #### like that lmao. I’ve read the newer heads have as much as 30 percent more flow. Back when that PIP first come out it was to prevent dropping 5&6 liners. I have seen it drop the rear of block by 15 degrees. So I stick with it. I also run a 6NZ oil cooler as well as a dual thermostat housing on my mechanicals. Up till a few years ago I insisted on a genuine PACCAR 4 core radiator and charge cooler. They just seemed to handle the heat better. Today they are same #### as rest in my opinion. I also refuse to run a heater hose to the right rear of block. It’s probably coincidental but I’ve seen too many scores pistons on #6 the night yiu turn the valves on. Again I’m not saying that it’s sure death I just don’t take unnecessary chances since I hate working on #### these days.
     
    LameMule, ElmerFudpucker and Oxbow Thank this.
  10. Oxbow

    Oxbow Road Train Member

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    It must have been early 90s when Cat came out with that procedure? I had my truck in the Cat truck shop in Boise for something like valve and bridge adjustment or something. They told me about drilling the head, and did the work at no charge as I recall.

    Those were good days!.
     
  11. ElmerFudpucker

    ElmerFudpucker Road Train Member

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    I just don’t know why they aren’t drilling them from the factory.
     
    Oxbow and wore out Thank this.
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