MX-13 oil drain plug leaking

Discussion in 'Kenworth Forum' started by Brandonpdx, Apr 6, 2025.

  1. Brandonpdx

    Brandonpdx Road Train Member

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    Never seen this before. Steel pan and plug on a 2015 T680. New copper washer last time the oil was changed.

    Having a hard time digging up a torque spec for it, but I’ve tried giving it an extra 16th of a turn a couple times now. It’s definitely in there snug. Took 55 ft/lbs to even get it to budge with a torque wrench the first time I tried, so it definitely wasn’t loose, and I’ve cleaned off the bottom several times and retorqued to 60, 65, then 70 and the #### thing still leaks. What’s the fix here? A new drain plug? Double washers?
     
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  3. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    No cracks in the pan around the plug?
     
    ducnut Thanks this.
  4. Brandonpdx

    Brandonpdx Road Train Member

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    No they checked that when it was in for oil a couple weeks ago. That’s what I thought it was too at first. I can’t believe that copper washer ain’t seating flat and sealing it up, especially after cinching it up a couple times. I guess the only thing to do is change the oil myself next time and really have a hard look at that plug and mating surface. Some small detail a shop guy rushing through a PM would never notice must be what’s going on. I just don’t have a way to catch 10 gallons of oil is the problem. Otherwise it looks pretty easy.
     
    Diesel Dave Thanks this.
  5. Diesel Dave

    Diesel Dave Last Few of the OUTLAWS

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    Get one of these. Makes your life a whole lot easier. IMG_7405.jpeg
     
  6. JB7

    JB7 Medium Load Member

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    Torgue for plug on metal pan is 44 ft lbs. I would take brake-clean and clean off around the plug. Start the truck and watch around the plug using a magnifying glass if necessary. After the oil drains the pan surface should be wiped off before installing the drain plug. Many don't do that. Probably got something between the surfaces, or a hairline crack which is unlikely. Hopefully the plug is not cross threaded.
    I saw on Raney's they want $21.95 just for the copper washer. They can be used over and over and still seal. Honda uses an aluminum washer and have re-used those over and over. The washer won't 'crush' like a new one but still seals without a drop leaking.
    Like you said, at the next oil change, inspect the pan and plug surfaces.
     
  7. Concorde

    Concorde Road Train Member

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    My 2014 t-680 with the same engine did the same thing.

    Replaced the copper washer and that fixed it. I know you said that you already replaced it but I would do it again. You do it so you know it was actually replaced. I bet someone wasn’t truthful about replacing it.
     
    '88K100 Thanks this.
  8. Diesel Dave

    Diesel Dave Last Few of the OUTLAWS

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    Before I installed the EZ drain, I use to put Teflon tape on the plug and reinstall.
     
  9. Brandonpdx

    Brandonpdx Road Train Member

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    Yep, all good ideas. Unfortunately I’ll have to live with it until it’s time to drain it again. I have a Fumoto drain valve on my 7.3 and it’s the bomb. The washer actually was replaced…the old one was a different color and maybe wasn’t even copper. It was like $2.50 for the new one. Pretty sure it isn’t cross-threaded. It had been leaking and making a huge mess for awhile the first time I noticed it prior to this last oil change, so it’s been out and re-installed since I’ve been driving it and no change. Swapping it out with a drain valve is a good idea next time it’s time to dump it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2025
  10. Diesel Dave

    Diesel Dave Last Few of the OUTLAWS

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    The EZ drain should work for you next time, you said in an earlier post that you can’t drain the oil all at once, with the EZ drain, you shut off, get another bucket and continue. Just saying…….
     
    FullMetalJacket and JB7 Thank this.
  11. Brandonpdx

    Brandonpdx Road Train Member

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    I don’t have any way to catch 10 gallons all at once but I can ask the company shop guy if he has a way to help this next time. (The outside shop I took it to did a super half-*** PM anyway for what they charged.) Then install the EZ valve and maybe I’ll get lucky and that will fix it. I tried one of those on my 7.3 Ford’s oil pan and it actually did leak a tiny bit, so I switched to a brass Fumoto valve and it’s been on there for years without issue. Takes a little longer to drain but way but it does keep the mess to a minimum. Handy for grabbing oil samples too.
     
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